Ph Meter newbie

[Dawg LB Steve]

Go to Brewers Friend website and click on the tools then calculators, pick water chemistry advanced, from there click on show Water Target Selection, Acid Additions, and open Grist Info (under this tab click on malt bill). This is one of the most user friendly ones I have found. I haven't messed with Screwy's EZ Water yet but heard it is pretty friendly to use also. With most of my profiles I may use anywhere from 2-4ml in a 5 gallon recipe depending on the beer. Darker grains lower pH, light grains raise pH, so for something for example Blonde, Pale or an IPA you would need more acid addition then for a Porter, Stout or Brown. Acid malt also can be used in the grist to lower pH but need to limit the amount used to 2% of grain bill or less so it doesn't affect flavor.
My 2 Cents

[Beer-lord]

Screwy's is very easy IMO. I use it along with Brun Water (paid version) and like them both. Brewers Friend is pretty easy as well.
If you don't have Distilled or RO water, you can use most bottled water and be close enough where it shouldn't make a big difference for most beers.

[Banjo-guy]

I use Bru'n water and find it pretty easy to use. What's new for me is that now I will be actually measuring the mash ph and adding lactic acid to adjust it. Up until now I have accepted that Bru'n waters projections are close enough.

[MadBrewer]

Ok...I've got a question that's been on my mind for a while regarding mash pH. MadBrewer says it above and I've read it elsewhere that you need to wait 10 to 15 minutes after mash in to check the pH. Then you've got to wait some more to let the test sample cool down to room temp. So you're mash has been going for 20 to 25 minutes before you can get an accurate reading. Then add on another 5 or 10 minutes to figure out exactly what sort of changes you need to make. So you're in the mash at least 30 minutes before you make the adjustment. Some mash conversions take place in the first 30 minutes. I've done a 30 minute mash and it worked great. Wouldn't it be too late to make any changes to the batch after you go through all this, or do you just take really good notes and make the change the next time you brew that recipe?

That's a great question and I understand what you are saying. I think this will also help answer a few of Banjo's questions. I'll try to explain a little better. I mentioned 5-10 minutes because that gives plenty of time for the mash to come together for a more accurate reading...if needed. If there is a lot of water additions or adjustments it can help. In all honesty I never wait that long but for someone starting out it's best to wait, again to get a more accurate reading until you get a feel for this new part of their process. A few minutes is really all that is needed, once I mash in and spend a few minutes mixing well and stabalizng my mash temp, by that time I am ready to take a sample.

What I do is have a shot glass in the freezer and use that to pour a sample into. It is almost instantly cooled down to the right temp to measure the pH properly. So I reality I am looking at maybe 5 mins give or take it to the mash. If you know your water and your program I find it's rare I am doing any further adjustment after I check. I am simply verifying my estimate is in the ballpark. The mash is pretty forgiving I like to settle around 5.3 to give a little cushion either way. So if I come up around 5.2 I'm good if I come in around 5.4...still all good. In time I have gotten a feel for what to add or how much to add to adjust if needed. A little more acid tonlowerash pH and a pinch of baking soda if I come in too low. I generally just let it ride if I am "good enough". Chasing small adjustments can lead to more problems. And to be honest, the mash generally tries to stbalize itself around 5.4 so you might see 5.3 early on and if you were to test at the end of the mash it might be closer to 5.4 same goes if you came in at 5.5...it will lower itself closer to 5.4.

I think the most important take away when talking about mash pH is just like everything else in brewing, mash pH like mash temperature is pretty forgiving. Mash pH is important to set the pace for the rest of the process. It's the first stepping stone to set up the path for the rest of the process...sparge, boil pH, end of boil pH which is all important to help.set up good fermentation which yields your final beer pH. Boil pH should be around 5.3 or lower, it will lower to 5.0-5.2 by the end of boil. Final beer pH should come in around 4.3-4.5. All these factors play a part, it's just another tool and tweak to process for improvement.

[BlackDuck]

Awesome information....thanks so much for posting it!!

[Banjo-guy]

Thanks for the information! I used the meter to measure the mash ph yesterday for the first time.
I was glad to see that my mash ph was 5.2. Bru’n water predicted 5.3 so It wasn’t dead on but close.

[ScrewyBrewer]

Ok...I've got a question that's been on my mind for a while regarding mash pH. MadBrewer says it above and I've read it elsewhere that you need to wait 10 to 15 minutes after mash in to check the pH. Then you've got to wait some more to let the test sample cool down to room temp. So you're mash has been going for 20 to 25 minutes before you can get an accurate reading. Then add on another 5 or 10 minutes to figure out exactly what sort of changes you need to make. So you're in the mash at least 30 minutes before you make the adjustment. Some mash conversions take place in the first 30 minutes. I've done a 30 minute mash and it worked great. Wouldn't it be too late to make any changes to the batch after you go through all this, or do you just take really good notes and make the change the next time you brew that recipe?

The latest consensus has the mash sample taken 30 minutes after the start of the mash. This gives the wort time to stabilize while providing a consistent approach to pH sampling and reporting. Target 77F as the ideal temperature for pH sampling too. It's also an accepted fact that trying to adjust mash pH after the fact doesn't work. Record your 30 minute pH value instead and then adjust your next batch as needed. I usually treat my brewing water the night before or early on brewday before transferring it to the tun and mashing in.

Of course, you want to calibrate your meter just prior to taking pH measurements and at least once a month when stored away for long periods without being used. I use Hanna probe cleaner after each brewday then storage solution when not in use. My meter's probe needs replacing about every 24-30 months which I've done several times now since I bought it.