So... I have some learnin' to do...

[BlackDuck]

As promised, here’s a few pictures.





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[bpgreen]

I've got a couple of thoughts on the CO2 refills. You'll need a CO2 canister, whether you get it from the welding place or someplace else. You might want to eventually get a second canister because they tend to run out at the worst possible moment, and then you're out of beer until you can get it refilled.

Is the $11 refill a swap, or do you drop off the canister and pick it up when it's refilled? If the latter, do they fill it while you wait, or do you drop it off and pick it up when it's filled? If you have to drop it off and pick it up, how long do you need to wait?

Since it's a welding supply shop, you should check to make sure they use food grade CO2 for your refill. CO2 used for welding doesn't need to be food grade, so it can be cheaper, but you don't want to use it for beer.

Have you checked with your LHBS? My LHBS will swap out canisters on the spot, but only if you got the canister from them. Unfortunately, I got mine from other sources.

The first place I found to do refills would refill on the spot most of the time, but I'd sometimes need to dropit off and pick it up a few hours later (or even the next day, which was inconvenient, since it's not convenient for me get there).

The advantage of a place that does refills versus swaps is that if you have a shiny new canister, you get the same shiny new cnister back. The disadvantage is that when it gets to a certain age, it needs to be recertified. If it passes the tests, it's only the cost of recertification. If it doesn't, then you need to pay for reconditioning.

[swenocha]

They supply for restaurants and bars, as well as install commercial CO2 and Nitro setups and have a specific person to work with for beverage carb. Definitely food grade. Not sure about the swap or fill. Will research that with them. The only LHBS we have does not sell canisters or do fills. This welding shop is what all of the locals seem to use.

[swenocha]

And thanks to you all for pics and advice. Will consider it all this weekend before i go to the welding and LHBS for supplies.

[bpgreen]

$11 is cheap for a refill. You'll come out ahead even if you need to do your own certitification etc.

Look into getting a 10 lb tank and ask them what a 10 lb tank would cost to filll. It's probably going to be close to the same cost for a 10 vs 5 lb refill. So in the long run, the 10 lb tank makes more sense.

If you watch sales and get a few more kegs, you may decide to naturally carbonate in the kegs. I haven't done the math, but it "feels" less expensoive when I carbonate naturally. It's easier than driving up to Ogden, at any rate.

[swenocha]

Inching forward. Between what I've already purchased, what's currently being shipped, and what I already had on hand, I figure I'm just a CO2 tank short of having everything now. BlackDuck, I bought that exact same regulator you picture. I found a similar one that was $20 cheaper, but got leery of it because it had so few reviews and finally stumbled onto a Reddit where people were testing it out and having 50/50 results on getting functional or non-functioning units from Amazon, so I opted to avoid all of that and go with one already discussed here. Figure my first brewday this year will be this weekend, and then I should be good to go with all equipment by the time I'm ready to leave the fermenter.

[swenocha]

So, another n00b question...

The prior owner of these kegs did soda in them. I bought a new set of rings, cleaned, etc. One further question on this. Should I replace the liquid post? Or at least the poppet? I don't notice a smell per se on the poppet, but just wanted to gauge opinion.

Another question... watching a few vids on carbonating. A lot of different processes. Set to 30 overnight, set to 10 or 15 for a week, set to 30 and roll the keg for 15.... What's the pref for you all?

[Beer-lord]

One of my first kegs had a HUGELY strong root beer smell. I didn't change the poppets as all the pieces were new or barely used but I soaked in lots of PBW with very hot water for 24 hours, then I used about half a small box of baking soda and water for another 24 hours, then I let it air dry outside (it was summer) in the sun for a day and it still had a slight root beer smell. I brew a very hoppy IPA and never noticed anything at all. I still use that keg and it smells like beer! It doesn't hurt to soak the parts in PBW, rinse well then let everything get a good soaking of Star San.
RE: carbing-If I'm in no rush for the beer, I cold crash before kegging and set to 12 and let it ride for about a week and then start tasting. Since it's already very cold when kegged, it probably saves a day or carbing. If I'm in a hurry but don't want to use the 'shake' method for uber fast carbing, I set to 30 for 24 hours then 15 for 3 days then my serving pressure at 12. Usually while not perfect, it's definitely drinkable. That said, most of my kegged beers aren't at their best until about 2-3 weeks in as they settle out. So I try not to rush when I can.

[BlackDuck]

I cold crash before kegging and set to 12 and let it ride for about a week and then start tasting..... That said, most of my kegged beers aren't at their best until about 2-3 weeks in as they settle out.

I do this exact same thing.

[Kealia]

I cold crash before kegging and set to 12 and let it ride for about a week and then start tasting..... That said, most of my kegged beers aren't at their best until about 2-3 weeks in as they settle out.

I do this exact same thing.

^This is what I do, too.^

Both other methods you mentioned (Swen) have the possibility of over-carbing which is a pain in the ass to recover from.
But they are very doable with practice.

[swenocha]

This is the method I intended to roll with for that exact reason (several sites mention the over-carb possibility), so good to see that that is the consensus.

[swenocha]

Back on this convo, I'm trying to figure this all out. I note that the stuff I bought on Amazon (prior to this discussion) said the following:

Working Pressure: 30 PSI
Burst Pressure: 90 PSI
Working Temperature: 23°F - 176°F

But i don't see a line resistance in the Amazon description. I see a series of codes and such printed on the tubing, but don't have that handy at the moment. The writeup on Amazon and reviews all say ppl using for kegerators and such, so I think I got the correct thing, but trying to figure it out. Could easily return for a different tubing option, but not sure yet.

[bpgreen]

I used to use the set it and forget it approach, but lately I've been adding sugar and letting it naturally carb.

[Kealia]

Back on this convo, I'm trying to figure this all out. I note that the stuff I bought on Amazon (prior to this discussion) said the following:

Working Pressure: 30 PSI
Burst Pressure: 90 PSI
Working Temperature: 23°F - 176°F

But i don't see a line resistance in the Amazon description. I see a series of codes and such printed on the tubing, but don't have that handy at the moment. The writeup on Amazon and reviews all say ppl using for kegerators and such, so I think I got the correct thing, but trying to figure it out. Could easily return for a different tubing option, but not sure yet.

What is the ID and OD of the tubing? I'm sure we can find some average/standard to use.

[swenocha]

I'm considering sending it back. Tons of comments and most good (4.5*), but a handful of negatives talk of chemical smell. I haven't opened it yet, so if it smells bad, I'll just send it back and go to the LHBS or the OHBS to purchase.

"Proper Pour 25 Foot Clear 3/16" ID 7/16" OD FDA Approved Vinyl Tube Multi-Purpose- Beer Line" is what it proclaims...