This Batch a Slow Rolling Volcanco

[Gomorrah_Dawn]

First, thanks to everyone who has answered my posts and bestowed sage wisdom upon me! Much appreciate the community already. My first ever batch went really well, but it was a premixed kit from BrewDemon. My second involved brewing all the grains, malt, etc, myself. Things were going just fine until I got to the point of returning my wort to boil. I literally turned my back for ten second and it boiled over so bad it extinguished the burner! I let it settle, although it was still somewhat foamy, and ran the 60 minute boil process. Then things got screwed up again when I had to cool it quickly, and didn't have nearly enough ice. Running back and forth to the grab more ice, the cool down probably took an hour. I got it down to 82F before I took it out of the ice. I couldn't add the yeast until the next day, because the temp didn't drop to under 70F until then. It had it in a cool dark place when I added the yeast last night, and when I woke up this morning it had erupted from the fermenter all over the floor. I drained some of it, thinking, maybe it just needs more space?? It was fine for a few minutes, and now it's slowly foaming out again. Finally my question! Do I cut my losses, or is there some way to tame this wild yeast and let the damn thing run its course?

[Kealia]

Let it do it's thing! I might suggest placing it in a tub to catch any more blowoff - or look into a 'blowoff tube' to help, too.

You learned a valuable lesson, unfortunately - do NOT turn your back on boiling wort - especially before it hits the hot break.

The beer itself should turn out fine. And after all this, you 'll deserve to drink it!

[berryman]

My second involved brewing all the grains, malt, etc, myself. Things were going just fine until I got to the point of returning my wort to boil. I literally turned my back for ten second and it boiled over so bad it extinguished the burner! I let it settle, although it was still somewhat foamy, and ran the 60 minute boil process.

That is called hot break, when the sugars just reach the boil. It happens more with DME (dried malt extract) but also with LME (liquid malt extract) and happens with all grain too. A couple things that will take care of that issue and it has happened to all of us at one time, A bigger boiling pot, pull it off the burner just as it starts to happen stir a little and try again and might take a couple times of this, last and what works best for me now is to have a spray bottle of cold water ready and as soon as you start hitting the boil spray, spray and spray some more until it has settled down and has a rolling boil, add your first hops, set the timer and have a beer. Never leave it even to blink your eyes when hitting the boil

[Gomorrah_Dawn]

Ohmygosh so this is normal?? My first batch was so well behaved, I had no idea things could get this haywire. And because I felt like a few things went wrong during the brewing and cooling, maybe I had messed it up. Now I'm sad I probably drained half a liter in my panic! I guess my last question is, what's the normal cool down time when it comes off the boil? The recipe made it seem like it needed to be a precipitous drop to 90F and if it took too long I risked the brew getting an "infection". Thanks, Kealia, for talking me off the ledge. I was about to dump this mess and start over. Phew!!!

[John Sand]

Cooling quickly is convenient, but not essential. There is a method called "no chill" where the wort is left to cool naturally overnight. I'm not recommending it, just pointing out that an hour chilling is not a problem. And yes, I've had boilovers in the kettle and foam overs from the fermenter too.

[mashani]

FWIW, I have done probably 60+ batches now with anywhere from an overnight to 24 hour slow chill with the lid of my brewing vessel on and covered with foil overlapping the edges and have done nothing but make good beer. The only thing you need to change if you go this route is to move your hop additions further towards the end of the boil, because the hops will get more utilization. (or use a bit less bittering hops).

Beer infecting bugs can not crawl up the sides and get under the lid. They simply don't work that way, they float in the air and "fall in". As long as the lid is covered like I describe, it's quite safe because they can't do that.

[bpgreen]

DME is probably more prone to boiling over than anything. But it can happen with LME or all grain to, as already mentioned.

A boil over is almost a right of passage. I swear the wort can sense when you turn your back. How else could it sit quietly until the second you turn your back and pick that exact second to boil over and make a mess of your stove (and if you're unlucky, the floor).

There are anti foaming agents that can reduce foaming greatly, both in the boiling phase and during fermentation. I haven't had a boil over since I started using them. I think the best known one of these is fermcap-s. In a pinch, you can use infant anti gas liquid drops containing simethicone.

I've done a lot of "no chill" batches, as well. Using the mash and boil, with the double wall, it often takes a couple of days to cool down. I put the lid on and cover the little hole with a "magic eraser" soaked in Star San until it cools to pitching temperatures.

[Gomorrah_Dawn]

Wow, every time I come back, more great advice on this. I especially appreciate knowing about the "no chill" cooling method. I WAS going to buy an immersion chiller (small one for $49) but now it sounds like I don't have to? Hmmm. Well, just in case, can anyone tell from this pic if I'll need a faucet adaptor for the chiller? I removed the spray head and pulled back the sleeve to show how it's attached.

IMG_0434 (1).jpg (221.27 KiB) Viewed 610 times

[berryman]

Most chillers I have seen use a garden hose type fitting. I got mine from Home Depot. I use on my laundry sink faucet.