Black IPA

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FrozenInTime
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Black IPA

Post by FrozenInTime »

I'll start this thread to so I don't hi-jack mashani's 'EFF'd up day thread again. More info needed here.

mashani wrote:
philm00x wrote:
FrozenInTime wrote:I have a 3lb bag of sparkling amber. I have a huge mix n match of the other stuff. I'm pretty sure I have cara, black malt and 40L, and 50lbs of 2-row. Wheat DME, lb me thinks.
briess sparkling amber uses 2 row, munich, and 60L crystal, so the carafa and black would be all you'd need to steep, like mashani said.

also, mashani, man what a s***ty brew day! I don't think I'd ever wanna have to re-create that fight scene lol.
Yeah... will come out a bit more malty if you use all sparkling amber, but it will still work.

For 2.5 Gallons:

1/4# each Carafa III and De-Bittered Black
Enough sparkling amber or a mix of that and something lighter to get you to 1.07ish range. (something like 3.75# if all DME).
I'm thinking 1.5# of that stuff and use some pale dme/lme or 2-row to get you the rest, that would give you something similar from a crystal/malty standpoint maybe... or if you want more malt to back up the hops, you can use all of that amber dme, but some IPA purists would complain about it. (I personally would not, I like really malty IPAs).

Hops I used:

1/4oz Magnum (12%) @60
3/4oz Amarillo (8%) @15
1/2oz Simcoe (12.5%) @15
20 minute (intended) Hop stand of 1/4oz Amarillo and 1.5oz of Simcoe.

Will possibly dry hop more Amarillo and Simcoe depending on how it tastes.

Based on the utilization I seem to get from hop stands, I was figuring this would end up around 70 IBUs, maybe even more. But smooth IBUs since they mostly come from the hop burst and stand.

But since it got up to a boil briefly and went more like 30 minutes, it might be something totally outrageous.

I used S-04 yeast I this. S-05 or any other kind of American Ale yeast or any higher attenuating English yeast would work.
S-04 and US-05 I have a vial each of washed yeast. I think I will go with the S-04 with this.

I don't have these hops or Carafa III but will put them on my list to pick up next time I'm in town.

I don't know what debittered black is, ashamed to admit. Don't think I've seen it in the store either. What is this and where can I get it?

I have roasted barley un-malted, chocolate malt, black malt, 80L, 40L, bavarian wheat, carapils, 50-some pounds of 2-row, munich, traditional dark DME, and some pilsen light DME.

Is my chocolate or black malt what your calling debittered?


I'm thinking it goes like this:
3lb sparkling amber
1.5lb 2-row mashed (2lb ?)
.25lb Carafa III
.25lb black malt (or do I need to find this debittered black?)
.25lb carapils

1/4oz Magnum (12%) @60
3/4oz Amarillo (8%) @15
1/2oz Simcoe (12.5%) @15
20 minute Hop stand of 1/4oz Amarillo and 1.5oz of Simcoe
question: hop stand, is this dropping this in at T-20, or are you dropping it in after flame-out, before starting
the chill down?

I'm thinking this will be more of a Black IIPA?
I have not put this in qBrew or Beersmith yet so my thunking may be off some, will finalize amounts when I use either program.
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Re: Black IPA

Post by mashani »

What I made was intended to be something between a high test IPA or a low test IIPA. It's not an extreme IIPA by any means.

This is the debittered black malt I used:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/belg ... -malt.html

It gives color without the stronger roasty and sharp flavors you will get from regular black malt. English Chocolate malt will give you color with less roastyness too, it might be a better sub then regular black malt if you have some. Not necessarily true with American Chocolate malt though. YMMV. It might be better to use maybe an extra 1/8# of carafa III and then only 1/8# of one of the others.

Hop stand, it's after flameout - I cool it to between 190-180, then toss them in. Then I stop trying to actively chill it for 20-30 minutes, because I'm in "small batch" mode, and it will chill on it's own in the temperature range I want in that timeframe (I'm paranoid and like to keep it above 160 after adding anything post boil for at least 10 minutes to reduce infection risk). If I was cooling 10 gallons of wort I'd leave the chiller running I think though.

You could go shorter or longer or mess with the temps - I don't know what the "sweet spot" is really yet. I've heard of folks going 90 minutes, or 10 minutes or anything in between. I put a lid on my pot and give it a swirl once in a while. I think in a commercial environment they are adding the hops to the whirlpool at closer to 200 degrees, but I'm trying to avoid flashing off as much volatile oils. 190-180 might actually be to hot and flashing off more then if you were to do it at say 170 or lower... I'm still tinkering with my process. I think some folks toss them in at 160 or 150 even. The lower your temps the longer you will need to leave the hops in to get as much of the oils to isomerize. I've found that what I am getting from the 190 initial temp is pretty stable long term bitterness, flavor and aroma, and not sure if that would be true at a temp like 160, although you might get some hop aroma that I'm not getting. I think I'm getting 10% or so of the AAU's extracted, and lots of flavor and good aroma. I think that by putting the lid on my pot some of what flashes off at my higher temps re-condenses and ends up back in the wort.

I would not worry about DMS from the lid on the pot at this point. I've never had it happen.

I like English yeasts in my American IPAs as well as my English IPAs. Most of my American IPAs tend to be somewhat of a hybrid anyways, as I do like me more malt forward IPAs then most Americans would consider appropriate. I'll often use 1# of Munich. Your sort of doing that if you use the Amber DME.
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