It's flat

[FedoraDave]

I kegged my first batch on Sept. 22. I had an issue with the CO2 tank, because I was stupid and didn't put Teflon tape on the connection. I fixed that on Sept. 23. I had set the regulator at around 10 psi, and I've sneaked a couple of samples over the past couple of days.

No head, not much carbonation, therefore, not as much flavor or good beer experience as I should be getting, especially from a stalwart stand-by recipe.

This morning, I upped the psi to around 18. I'm hoping this remedies the situation, and I'll be able to enjoy a crisp, well-carbed beer with a luscious head in a couple of days.

I guess this is part of the learning curve. I sure hope so, because I've got two more kegs that I want to get in the rotation ASAP. I'll be kegging a batch of 2 Daves Irish Red in a week, and I'd love for it to be the smooth, flavorful ale I've enjoyed for the past three years or so.

[Beer-lord]

If you're in a hurry, and don't want to use the shake method (I don't do that) you can go 30 psi for 24 hours, then down to 20 psi for 2 days then normal pressure and in 5 days, you're there. I still let mine sit about 10-12 for about 10 days. Not only is it carbed then, it's settled and cleaner IMO.

[Rebel_B]

I kegged my first batch on Sept. 22. I had an issue with the CO2 tank, because I was stupid and didn't put Teflon tape on the connection. I fixed that on Sept. 23. I had set the regulator at around 10 psi, and I've sneaked a couple of samples over the past couple of days.

No head, not much carbonation, therefore, not as much flavor or good beer experience as I should be getting, especially from a stalwart stand-by recipe.

This morning, I upped the psi to around 18. I'm hoping this remedies the situation, and I'll be able to enjoy a crisp, well-carbed beer with a luscious head in a couple of days.

I guess this is part of the learning curve. I sure hope so, because I've got two more kegs that I want to get in the rotation ASAP. I'll be kegging a batch of 2 Daves Irish Red in a week, and I'd love for it to be the smooth, flavorful ale I've enjoyed for the past three years or so.

Good Luck! I don't recognize what the issue would be... Lid & posts all tight on your keg? I typically carb for 4-5 days at +/- 12psi, vent, bring it down to +/- 8psi for a perfect pour.

[D_Rabbit]

The issue is time. I set my PSI at around 11-12 PSI and it still takes about 10-14 to get it to the right carb level. I put my first keg on tap about 2 weeks ago and it is finally at the carb level I find desirable. I think this is just a case of the newb coming out again. Something new for you and anxious for it to be where you want it. Give it another week and it will be fine.

What temp is your kegerator set to as well? That will make a difference? Mine is at 40-45 degrees which puts 11-12 PSI at aorund 2.3-2.4 volume.

I can't remember where I read it, I think it was posted by the guy from BrewHardware, that the optimum time to carb by putting it straight on the CO2 at the desired level is 2-3 weeks. Otherwise do what beerlord said, crank it to 20-30psi and let it sit for a few nights than back down to 10 for serving.

[Inkleg]

Me too, with set it and forget it, 2-3 weeks at 40* to be carbed. Though I do sneak tastes from time to time. "For science", well that's what I tell myself.

[Kealia]

Yeah, 10 days isn't quite enough. Two weeks is my sweet spot for a well carbed beer at 12psi and 40 degrees.
Although I have a party next weekend and I want to try my Nelson Sauvin with a buddy so i'm going to try the 30/20/12 method and see what happens.
I just want to pull a couple of decent testers. I don't expect it to be perfect by any means.

[Dawg LB Steve]

Very well could be your gauge on the regulator side is slightly off, too. I get decent carb at about a week set at 11-12 lbs.

[FedoraDave]

Thanks for the responses, guys. Yeah, I guess I'm just being an impatient n00b in this regard.

Yet somehow, somewhere, I got it into my head that 8 - 10 days at the desired psi is enough. I'm sure the posts and the lid are tight, and I do get a draw, so there's pressure in there, obviously.

I'm going to give it another try tonight or tomorrow, since that will make it close to 48 hours at 18 psi, and I'll see if I notice a difference.

As long as we're on the topic, what, then, is to be done with the other kegs? By that, I mean, by the time I keg Beer #2 and Beer #3, Beer #1 will already be at the proper pressure. If I try the 30/20/12 method with #2 and #3, what'll that do to #1?

Also, is venting recommended/required? This makes me a little nervous, since two of my kegs are converted pin locks, and there's not a venting ring like on the ball lock.

DRabbit, the keezer temp is set to 40 - 45, and as of this morning, it's around 42 degrees

[ScrewyBrewer]

Dave I mixed a bit of dish soap in a little water and using a piece of paper towel leak tested every connection in the kegging lines from the tap to the posts. I keg and bottle my beer cold 34-36F and set the regulator to 12-15 psi and start testing the beer after 5 days. Over time as I got more experienced with kegging I found out that worked best for my combination of regulator gauge, serving line diameter and length. I use set and forget except when in a rush then I'll crank up the pressure to 30 psi for 12 or so hours to speed things up. But I know that venting off the excess pressure also removes aromas too so I try to keep that to a minimum.

I have to admit after investing so much into a kegging system I was more than a little anxious to get it working just right but soon found out that over carbonating the beer caused all sorts of foaming issues at the tap. I've kegged so many batches now that I don't even give a thought about getting the c02 levels right because I've become familiar with my system and it's settings, as you will too.

[FedoraDave]

Yes, Vince, I soap-tested the connections after re-installing the regulator with Teflon tape. I realized I had a leak when the temperature dropped to nearly zero, even though the thermostat was set to 40. The best explanation was a CO2 leak, and after I dealt with that, the temperature has been steady.

I guess some of this is naturally going to be trial and error, and as with all the other processes in homebrewing, from hop additions to mashing to yeast starters, I'll get more comfortable with it in time, and will be dispensing my own advice for those new to the process.

[Kealia]

As long as we're on the topic, what, then, is to be done with the other kegs? By that, I mean, by the time I keg Beer #2 and Beer #3, Beer #1 will already be at the proper pressure. If I try the 30/20/12 method with #2 and #3, what'll that do to #1?

Also, is venting recommended/required?

Unless you shut off the valves to the other kegs, they will end up over-carbed. After keeping the kegs at 30 pis for 24 hours (for example) you do need to vent it and then reset the psi. I'm not familiar with pin locks so I can;t help there, sorry.

[D_Rabbit]

What Kealia said! Luckily when I bought my kegerator it came with a 5# C CO2 tank. I already had a 10# tank from when I was going to build one prior to moving. Might be something to look in to investing with. I plan on using the spare tank to start carbing my kegs while warm conditioning that way when I transfer them in to the kegerator they will be close to carbed so I don't have to wait the 2-3 weeks for it to be carbed. I started noticing a vast difference in the carb levels at around 8-9 days. I tested every 2 days after that and it was quite the differences. Not only that but then I started to get the head and head retention from the carb levels increasing and then came that beautiful lacing. You should start seeing a difference in the carb levels every few days now.

[FedoraDave]

I reset the psi to nearly 30 yesterday, and I did notice a difference in the evening.

So after getting the carbonation level I want, should I shut down the feeder valve and vent each keg? And keep the feeder valve closed until the keg is completely tapped out? Or reset the psi, and reopen the feeder valve after venting to keep it pressurized and then rotate through the various valves whenever I hook up a new keg?

Sorry if I seem dense, but I've never seen a comprehensive step-by-step walk-through of these procedures, and I'd like things to go as smoothly as possible. I can intuit some things, such as assembling the ball lock kit, but trying to sort all of this stuff out just makes my brain go fuzzy.

[Dawg LB Steve]

You are going to want to close the valve, vent, reset the regulator ( back regulator all the way back then adjust the regulator up to the setting you want ) to the carb level and open feeder. It will equalize from the the amount absorbed in the liquid to the pressure in the head space. Also the nice pour will need the pressure. Braukasper posted back in May in the Kegging and Bottling thread, around a dozen topics down about hose length and diameter in relation to getting a balanced system for the perfect pour.

[RickBeer]

This would be the post I think.