Some thoughts on procedure. Opinions wanted

[FedoraDave]

I've gone through two kegs, now, and I think I'm adjusting to the learning curve. First keg was disappointing, but that was a combination of improper procedure and impatience. The second keg was better, although I would have preferred a little more effervescence. Still, I think that can be overcome eventually. I enjoyed the beer immensely, though.

I've got a third batch ready to keg this coming weekend, and here's what I'm thinking, which may influence my procedures going forward.

I'm going to rack to the keg, and then vent the oxygen with short introductions of CO2, at about 2 psi; three or four shots with venting. Then I'll shut off the gas feed and leave it in the keezer to get cold for at least 12 hours, for maximum CO2 absorption, and then infuse it with CO2 at 30 psi, rock the keg for 15 minutes, then drop the psi to 12 or so, give it a day or two, and see what I've got.

Yes? No? Better ideas? I'm basing this on some videos I've seen, as well as some posts here.

I'm open to everything, since I'm still learning.

[Beer-lord]

What works for me is to flush the empty keg with C02 before I rack, then rack, cap then add 20 psi to the keg while releasing any oxygen with the relief valve. Then I leave about 20 psi in the keg as I let it sit and wait for space in the kegerator.
When ready, I let it sit in the kegerator about 39-40 degrees for 18-24 hours then I reduce to serving pressure and let it sit for 7 days (often 12 or so is needed) then it's usually ready for drinking.
However, I've found that it's best after it's been in the keg about a month, hasn't settled and cleared.

I've never done the rush method and really don't plan on it. If it gets overcarbed, it's nearly impossible to settle down to where I like it.

[FedoraDave]

It's been kind of undercarbed so far, but I've sort of been casting around in the dark, trying to find what works. The videos I've seen suggest that colder temperatures during carbonation, and rocking right away will increase the absorption of CO2, and hasten the drinkability.

[Beer-lord]

If you chill your keg about 12 hours, and add about 30-40 psi and rock it on its side for a few minutes, it'll be carbed.
But I still think the beer tastes better if you just 'set it and forget it'. Having not done the former method, I can't say for sure.
I know a few folks who keg it and they are drinking their beer 30 minutes later. I'm in no rush as I have a fridge full of beer.

[Inkleg]

I'll flush the keg before racking in the beer too. Then I'll purge it a few times and make sure the lid is sealed by spraying it with Star-San. Then into the keezer if there's room and hook it up to the gas. I'll take a taste at one week to see how it's doing and be drinking in 2-3. I do all this at 12 psi so I have no adjusting/readjusting of the regulator to fool with. Pour temperatures are around 38-40*. For me the simpler the better and "set it and forget it" is as simple as it gets.

[mashani]

The videos I've seen suggest that colder temperatures during carbonation, and rocking right away will increase the absorption of CO2, and hasten the drinkability.

The carbonation bit is true, it's based on the gas laws. Specifically Henry's Law.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry%27s_law

[FedoraDave]

So it's a matter of how quickly I want to start drinking my beer, and maybe compromising a little on the quality of it. As opposed to a "right" or "wrong" or "flawed" procedure.

I see I've fallen back into n00b mode, wanting to start in on a batch before its time. I'll just have to exercise patience.

[Gymrat]

It's been kind of undercarbed so far, but I've sort of been casting around in the dark, trying to find what works. The videos I've seen suggest that colder temperatures during carbonation, and rocking right away will increase the absorption of CO2, and hasten the drinkability.

If it is undercarbed your serving pressure might be too low. You can overcarb a keg and in time it will balance out to the pressure you apply and become under carbed. It loses some of the over pressure every time you pull a draw until it eventually balances out to whatever pressure you are applying to it.

I have 4 kegs and two taps so my kegs usually wait 5 or 6 weeks to be put into my kegerator. That's why I natural carb. I add 2 oz of sugar and 10lbs of CO2 then let them sit and wait to go into the kegerator. Then when I have a near empty keg I put the next one in line in. When I blow a keg I simply switch the line over and begin enjoying the next keg. Sometimes they go in a bit over carbed but by the time I pull my 3rd or 4th draw and let it sit a while it evens out to where I want it.

[Beer-lord]

I recently did what Roger describes on a keg and it worked out pretty well. Took maybe 2 days and it was perfect. With 3 taps, I rarely will find the need for this but it is a great option.

[ScrewyBrewer]

I look at it this way it's gonna take two weeks to ferment the beer that's a given, so why not just factor in another week or two for carbing the beer too? Once the beer's done fermenting I put the bucket in the refrigerator for at least five days to cold crash and then use the cold beer to fill my kegs. But even if I skip that step and fill the kegs while the beer's at room temperature I set the regulator at 12-15psi and just forget it for at least a week.

My lines aren't balanced yet, in order to serve the beer I close the valve, bleed off most of the Co2 from the keg then lower the regulator to 5-7 psi in order to pour drafts that won't be foaming over. My goal is eventually to be able to get my serving line diameter and line lengths connected so that my serving pressure and carbing pressures are both the same.

I bought a fitted frozen water jacket that slips over the corny keg to keep it cold but have had huge issues with foaming when taking it to parties. I think it' related to the smaller picnic tap line because the same keg connected in my beer fridge poured drafts perfectly, once the psi was turned down to 5-7psi.

[DaYooper]

Ive done both but have given up on the crank-n-rock method. I never seemed to get the carbonation where I wanted it. I generally set the pressure to around 12-15 outside of the kegerator, rock it somewhat, and then let it sit, knowing that when it goes in the temperature will drop the pressure and it will stabilize at serving pressure in less than a week. So far (knock on wood) I've been able to keep my pipeline so always have something else to drink. The kegerator is for the staple house beers whereas the variety is hiding away in the pantry.

[Kealia]

I tried the burst carbing method (higher psi) once and it over-carbed the beer so I went back to the set and forget it method.
12 psi for 10-14 days works and that's my serving pressure, too.

Vince, if you have everything else dialed in then the easiest thing to do is start with 10 feet of 3/16" ID serving lines to balance your system. If 12 psi is your carbing level, then you can serve at that same pressure with the length and diameter I mentioned. And if you find that you been is carbed right but you feel that the pour is too slow, you can start cutting off 1 foot at a time until you get it where you like it.

It should be that simple.

[Beer-lord]

I wasn't having any problems with the hoses that came with my tri-tap but a few months ago I got new Perlicks and updated my hosing to the Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra Barrier Tubing. The bad news is that you need more of it and it's pretty rigid but you can use the push/pull easy connect/disconnect and my pours are pretty perfect. If I've not tapped any beer for a few days, the 1/3 of the first pour is a bit foamy but every pour after that is perfect. And, this tubing will not keep flavors like many hoses will.
From the website:

This tubing is a favorite among the homebrewing and kegging crowds for its ability to inhibit taste and odor permeation.

From the manufacturer: Unsurpassed oxygen and flavor protection combined with flushability in a co-extruded tube.

Flushable Glas-Flex™ liner - allows changeovers from even the most pungent flavors with simple flushing procedures.
NSF-Certified products - certified under standard NSF-51 for food equipment and NSF-61 for drinking water systems.
Dual-Barrier construction - flushable Glas-Flex™ inner liner surrounded by a seamless extruded barrier layer in a coextruded polyolefin tube.

If anyone is starting fresh or changing, it's worth a look.

http://youtu.be/K0dPgHwfeI8

[ScrewyBrewer]

I tried the burst carbing method (higher psi) once and it over-carbed the beer so I went back to the set and forget it method.
12 psi for 10-14 days works and that's my serving pressure, too.

Vince, if you have everything else dialed in then the easiest thing to do is start with 10 feet of 3/16" ID serving lines to balance your system. If 12 psi is your carbing level, then you can serve at that same pressure with the length and diameter I mentioned. And if you find that you been is carbed right but you feel that the pour is too slow, you can start cutting off 1 foot at a time until you get it where you like it.

It should be that simple.

Thank you for sharing! I just looked in the brew room and I found two lengths of 5/16 OD x 3/16 ID vinyl tubing just a few inches short of ten foot long to get me started. The serving tubing I have now is 7/16 OD x 5/16 ID and it's only six feet long. Tonight's as good a night as any to make the change since both corny kegs are carbed and ready to drink.

[gwcr]

I also did the quick shake method on one keg. The carb level was good, but it still tasted best (to me) after 3-4 weeks in the keg anyway. I now only use the set and forget method at 12psi and it's fully carbed at 10-14 days, and it still tastes best after 3-4 weeks in the keg. So for me, I avoid the temptation to drink fully carbed but still young beer, by having not fully carbed beer for the first 2 weeks. Just like with bottling, it definitely helps to have a pipeline going (and at least a dual regulator).