Still adjusting to the learning curve
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- FedoraDave
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Still adjusting to the learning curve
I had been noticing that a lot of my draft beers were coming out very foamy, especially on the first draw of the evening. But I just shrugged and figured it was part of the deal.
But recently my CO2 tank punted the pail, and when I replaced it, I readjusted the psi. It was set at just under 12, but I set it at 10. Now, this keg is nearly empty, by my calculations, but I just drew a pint (after hooking up the new CO2 about ten days ago), and the draw was superb. I usually use the Sam Adams Perfect Pint glass, and I figure the liquid level should be at the stripe where the logo is, with the rest of the glass being filled with foam. And that's what I got.
So I guess, for me, 10 psi is the level I want. Just a little change can make a big difference.
But recently my CO2 tank punted the pail, and when I replaced it, I readjusted the psi. It was set at just under 12, but I set it at 10. Now, this keg is nearly empty, by my calculations, but I just drew a pint (after hooking up the new CO2 about ten days ago), and the draw was superb. I usually use the Sam Adams Perfect Pint glass, and I figure the liquid level should be at the stripe where the logo is, with the rest of the glass being filled with foam. And that's what I got.
So I guess, for me, 10 psi is the level I want. Just a little change can make a big difference.
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
I find I need to adjust to between 10 and 14 depending on a number of factors but, 12 usually works for me. As my kegs empty I sometimes have to lower it to 10.
I get a tad bit more foam after the keg sits for a few days but after the first pour, things are great. Guess my kegs have gas!
I get a tad bit more foam after the keg sits for a few days but after the first pour, things are great. Guess my kegs have gas!
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- FedoraDave
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
I've drawn over 45 pints from this keg, so it really is on its last legs. And they've almost all been very foamy at 12 psi, especially the first draw of the evening. I don't know if the style makes any difference. This is a Fat Tire clone, so it's an amber ale. But I've noticed similar results with Pale Ales, IPAs, and lagers. I may stick with 10 psi for next couple of kegs (a California Common and an IPA) before I make any firm decisions. I'm going to be kegging an Oktoberfest in mid-September, though, so I'd like to feel I've got it sussed by then.
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
My first pull is always foamy because the lines in the tower are warm. Once they get chilled by the first pull they stay cold and the rest of my drafts come out great. You can avoid that foamy first pour by installing a fan that blows into the tower. But then I am not sure how your system is set up. If it is set up the way I think it is the lines should always be the same temperature as your beer anyway.
- ScrewyBrewer
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
I bought a new Co2 gauge to replace the one a friend of mine did in, he screwed in the adjusting screw until it broke something inside the regulator, oh well. I then removed all the keg poppets and gave them a good cleaning. I then ran 3/16 inch ID beer line from the connector to the tap connection using an 8 foot length. I've been set 'n forget carbonating my kegs for months since making the changes and I'm happy to say the pours have been perfect .
More important to me now I can serve my beer using the same 12-15 psi that I used to force carbonate it! I can't even tell you how relieved I am to know the tap is finally balanced. It took me a lot of trial and error but I did fix it.
More important to me now I can serve my beer using the same 12-15 psi that I used to force carbonate it! I can't even tell you how relieved I am to know the tap is finally balanced. It took me a lot of trial and error but I did fix it.
Last edited by ScrewyBrewer on Sun Jul 19, 2015 5:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- FedoraDave
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
I don't have a tower. It's a chest freezer with a collar built on it, and the taps come out of the wooden collar. The entirety of the beer lines are inside the keezer, so the temperature should be consistent enough.Gymrat wrote:My first pull is always foamy because the lines in the tower are warm. Once they get chilled by the first pull they stay cold and the rest of my drafts come out great. You can avoid that foamy first pour by installing a fan that blows into the tower. But then I am not sure how your system is set up. If it is set up the way I think it is the lines should always be the same temperature as your beer anyway.
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
Yes it should. This is one of the downsides to my system.
Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
I bought some cheap freezer wrap koozie type thing that insulates the tower. On the weekends I put it in the freezer for an hour then wrap it around the tower and it keeps it much colder. I only get a tad bit of foam out the first 1/5 of the beer, after that, pours are perfect.
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- ScrewyBrewer
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
Dave I may have missed this but are you force carbonating using set 'n forget? For me I get more accuracy controlling the carbonation levels that way.
ezRecipe 'The easy way to awesome beer!'
'Give a man a beer and he'll waste an hour, teach him to brew beer and he'll waste a lifetime'
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
That is a good idea. I have seen plans for installing computer fans to constantly blow up into the tower. I have thought about maybe just getting a cheap battery operated fan and turn it on an hour before I pour my first beer. For the time being I just live with a foamy first pour.Beer-lord wrote:I bought some cheap freezer wrap koozie type thing that insulates the tower. On the weekends I put it in the freezer for an hour then wrap it around the tower and it keeps it much colder. I only get a tad bit of foam out the first 1/5 of the beer, after that, pours are perfect.
Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
Here's what I got....cheap and if it doesn't work, you're only out a few bucks. I rarely put it in the freezer but you can just get some neoprene or foam pipe wrap if you don't care what it looks like and use that instead. But this item can be chilled.
http://www.amazon.com/Barproducts-com-I ... B002IMP29C
http://www.amazon.com/Barproducts-com-I ... B002IMP29C
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- FedoraDave
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Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
Yes, under the advisement of Gymrat, I just connect the lines and leave it for ten days minimum before drawing my first pint. I tried rocking the keg to speed things up, but I can't see any benefit in that, so I quit after a couple kegs. I like set 'n' forget, and I just have to tell myself to be patient. I'll be kegging a Cali Common next weekend, and an IPA three weeks after that, and then I'll be adding my Oktoberfest mid-September, so I'm hoping by then I'll have an idea of how well 10 psi works for me.ScrewyBrewer wrote:Dave I may have missed this but are you force carbonating using set 'n forget? For me I get more accuracy controlling the carbonation levels that way.
Obey The Hat!
http://www.homebrew-with-the-hat.com
Some regard me as a Sensei of Brewing
http://www.homebrew-with-the-hat.com
Some regard me as a Sensei of Brewing
Fedora Brauhaus
Re: Still adjusting to the learning curve
Vince, I'm glad to hear that you finally got it squared away. I know you fought with getting it balanced for a while. Congrats!ScrewyBrewer wrote: More important to me now I can serve my beer using the same 12-15 psi that I used to force carbonate it! I can't even tell you how relieved I am to know the tap is finally balanced. It took me a lot of trial and error but I did fix it.