Bulk Yeast

[philm00x]

At work, we keep 500g bricks of dry yeast in our cooler where we keep kegs and hops. We just fold the open end over and seal it with some duct tape, then put the brick into a ziplock bag and seal it.


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[bpgreen]

At work, we keep 500g bricks of dry yeast in our cooler where we keep kegs and hops. We just fold the open end over and seal it with some duct tape, then put the brick into a ziplock bag and seal it.


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And where do you work?

[philm00x]

Wop's Hops Brewing in Sanford, FL.


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[bpgreen]

Wop's Hops Brewing in Sanford, FL.


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Cool. Thanks.

[philm00x]

Yep!


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[mashani]

philm00x, this is just a curiosity question:

What kind of pitch rates do you use at your brewery? How fast do you burn through those bricks?

EDIT: and I just checked out your beer menu... curious - why don't you folks have a nice low abv 3-4% bitter or mild on your list being an English style type of brewery? Won't folks drink that in FL? If I was in FL I'd want to drink that all the time.

[Whamolagan]

At work, we keep 500g bricks of dry yeast in our cooler where we keep kegs and hops. We just fold the open end over and seal it with some duct tape, then put the brick into a ziplock bag and seal it.


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so how much do you use out of the open brick per batch size?

[philm00x]

The menu online may not be updated. We don't cater to any particular style per se, but most beers we brew lean toward the malty side. As for the lower ABV bitters n such, I couldn't say. A lot of our beers are brewed to suit the seasons, and our mainstays are styles that most folks around here drink (APA, EPA, stout, etc). ABV on the vast majority of our beers is kept to an average session ABV between 5 and 6. The brewery isn't really English style, but the owner likes many English styles because they're more malty typically.

On any given batch of beer we use 200-250 grams, so about half a brick.


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[ScrewyBrewer]

On a different but related note, the owner of a new local brewery told us he pays $60 for a package of US-05 that will ferment a 7 bbl. batch of beer. He's thinking about reusing yeast to save some dollars but the cost is so low it may be more trouble than its worth.

[pengins27]

Uhh Ohh, i haven't made a batch of beer in a year. I tried the BiB 1 gallon kit and made bottle bombs, my wife is a bit weary now. That being said, is my yeast more than likely done for - stored in a drawer in the basement, roughtly 68 deg f all year round.

[philm00x]

Screwy, sounds about right. We use half a brick to ferment 3 bbl.. A full brick would be good for 6 to 7 bbl..


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[Whamolagan]

Uhh Ohh, i haven't made a batch of beer in a year. I tried the BiB 1 gallon kit and made bottle bombs, my wife is a bit weary now. That being said, is my yeast more than likely done for - stored in a drawer in the basement, roughtly 68 deg f all year round.

You might have to double up on the yeast. If you made bottle bombs, you may have added too much priming sugar to the bottles, or fermentation may not have been complete. If you wife is worried, then store the bottles in a cooler in case it happens again.

[mashani]

Screwy, sounds about right. We use half a brick to ferment 3 bbl.. A full brick would be good for 6 to 7 bbl..
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Hey, not intended as criticism as I'm sure it works fine - but just some commentary based on what I've read about studies of actual viable cells in dry yeast vs. what manufacturer says there are, and if I understand what bbl to gallons amounts to properly, that works out to something like 2 grams per gallon, which is theoretically enough for 1.04ish wort, but what I saw of your breweries recipes they are bigger then that - I think I would personally pitch more then that in a 1.05 - 1.06 wort, more like 3 grams per gallon... some commercial breweries who harvest and re-use their yeast pitch even more then that (sometimes I do too!). That said, I'm sure that ferments a 1.05 - 1.06 wort just fine, but you can pitch more without any bad effect, and fend off potential buggers.

Check out this calculator, which was build based on some of the research I was talking about (you can see some of it below the calculator), and look at the pro pitch rates. I tend to pitch between what it calls "Pro 0.75" and "Pro 1.0" depending on my SG, because I have a bretty house and want to be sure I out compete it. If you went up to what it calls "Pro 1.0" at 5 gallons, at 1.055, it will actually suggest what amounts to 4 grams per gallon.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitc ... alculator/

I know I have had no bad effects and have been making consistently better beer since upping my pitch rates more towards those numbers, even with dry Belgian strains.

There are some strains I wont' do it for (Certain wheat and Belgian liquid strains), but those kinds of pitch rates don't mess up the flavor profile of dry Abbaye or Bella Saison yeast in my experience, so I pitch those pretty high too, unless I actually want my house brett to get a foothold.

[philm00x]

Understood. Although straight from Fermentis' website, pitching rate should be 50-80 grams per hL. 3 bbl is roughly 3.5 hL. 250 grams into 3 bbl is a bit over 70 g/hL. I'm sure this is up to a certain SG but as my experience has been with the beers I've brewed at work, they attenuate to target, or within a point up or down. Plus we pump the wort into the fermenters with O2, so there's every chance for the yeast to be able to multiply and ferment. But I see where you're coming from and initially I had run the pitch rate in my head as well via calculators when I first started there, but it works.


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[mashani]

See some of the research mentioned below that calculator it gets into some of the what the manufacturer says vs. what was measured, vs. what mr. malty says about dry yeast vs. it's reality yada yada stuff. And of course how fresh it is matters, so with always fresh yeast maybe it matters a lot less.

But really, it's not an attenuation issue that is of concern more then an out competing other stuff issue. An large underpitch can attenuate fully assuming the wort has enough oxygen and nutrients available. The pro-brewer scales are mostly about assuring you get only 2-3 generations of growth before it can actively ferment. That is enough to get you the flavor profile as intended, but not let anything else get a foothold.