BeerBorg

mashani wrote:I'll just mention that if you used the included yeast, that's a dry yeast called S-33, and it is a powdery yeast that doesn't flocculate out easily. So it will take a longer time for your beer to clear then if you used a highly flocculent yeast like say Nottingham for example.

Would it be a direct replacement to use the Nottingham? Meaning, the same amount pitched as what comes with the kit?

Oesh01 wrote:Seems like having patients is a key to getting the desired results of good brew!

Truer words have never been spoken.

Once you do a couple of batches and feel comfy about the overall process, we can recommend 'tips' to help with clarity if that is a goal.
For example, bpgreen mentioned cold crashing which I am a fan of. (Once you are sure fermentation is complete you stick the fermenter in the fridge/freezer - at as close to freezing temps as possible - for 2-5 days. This helps drop the haze-inducing substances out and puts a clearer beer into your kef/bottles). Then, with additional cold storage they get even clearer.

Other options include using different yeasts (as mashani noted), the use of gelatin (yes, there's always room for Jello!) and a few others.

For now, enjoy your beer and the next few. When you're ready to tweak more things, come on back and ask away.

(Not to open a can of worms, but are you set on your kegerator? Meaning, are you getting a good pour? Carbed beer, not overly foamed, etc. - that sometimes takes a while to dial in the temp, psi and beer line length)

Cheers.

Currently my kegerator is doing great!
I have my regulator at 10 psi and 6' of beer line. I must have lucked out with getting it setup to this point.
I have done a lot of research and it seems that the setup can be a bit of a trick in some cases. The picture I posted of my beer was a direct pour from my kegerator.

Oesh01 wrote:

mashani wrote:I'll just mention that if you used the included yeast, that's a dry yeast called S-33, and it is a powdery yeast that doesn't flocculate out easily. So it will take a longer time for your beer to clear then if you used a highly flocculent yeast like say Nottingham for example.

Would it be a direct replacement to use the Nottingham? Meaning, the same amount pitched as what comes with the kit?

What came with your kit I think is a 5g pack, Nottingham comes in 11.5g packs. So, yes, you could pitch half a pack of Nottingham and it would be ok. You can also pitch the whole pack if you want, and it will also be fine, and if you do so a low gravity beer like those kit beers will likely be ready to bottle or keg in 7 days if you ferment at 62-66 degrees. If you can get down to 57-59 degrees, then you can pitch a full pack, let it go 2 weeks, and have a very clean almost lager like beer. I would pretty much always pitch the whole pack, but I pitch a lot of yeast.

Nottingham at cool temperatures (64 < or so) is actually a cleaner yeast (less yeast created flavors) then S-33. But if your temperature control is weak, temperature fluctuates a lot, and/or you get into the 70s then that then S-33 will still make good beer, which is why it's the one that comes with the kits... so if people don't have good temperature and ferment on their kitchen counter it isn't a total disaster.

I have made One Evil Pilsner using K97 German Ale Yeast, spring water, and one half tube of liquid White Labs Clarity Ferm which results in a clear light golden beer. It was good tasting when I drank it at 10 weeks from brewing day using a frosted pint glass. This fall I will make it again but will use S23 Lager yeast, spring water, and one half tube of liquid White Labs Clarity Ferm. I will ferment it in a 2 gallon Mr. Beer plastic fermenter inside of a small office refrigerator for 5 weeks at 52 degrees.

Thanks for the update SWBrewDog. Let us know how that next batch works out. I'm learning pilsners.