BeerBorg

I started this thread because we were getting a "flavor" from the bittering addition. Like Mashani said it was a harsh woody flavor that completely overpowered the beer and the other hops.

While the Galena is supposed to be a mild and pleasant bittering hop it had a pretty high Beta acid content and we have since read that the Beta can leave harsh and unfavorable flavors.

These beers do not seem to improve much with extended conditioning.

So I was looking for pairings that the likes to use repeatedly.

We have used Magnum and Millennium hops for bittering since I posted this and we like them a lot for being "clean".

@ Da BB's: How you add the hops to the boil can have a dramatic effect on how bitterness is perceived. A first wort addition is normally perceived as being more balanced, less harsh than adding at the boil. A hopstand gives a nice rounded bitterness, more flavor than straight boil additions.

philm00x wrote:
"A thought crossed my mind here on my lunch break at work. If you are only adding a battering addition to a beer, it wouldn't really matter what hops you use, since you don't really taste the flavor, just the bitterness, right? If this is the case, then using a small amount of high alpha hops would be more cost effective than a larger amount of low alpha hops. I'm always up for saving money!"

This practice can lead to a harsh, burning bitterness that you may not want in your beer. I would much rather spend a couple bucks more than have brew up a beer I do not care for, because I screwed up the hop profile. Have done that more than once.

I highly recommend the book "Hop Variety Handbook by Dan Woodske" It is straight forward & in plain English hop guide for homebrewers

We have been doing hop stands lately and have been pleased with the results.

We haven't done first wort addition before, that is where you put the hops in during the mash?

I don't get how that works as I keep reading that the boil is required to break down the insoluble resins so the alpha acids become soluble in the wort.

I have also heard of hop bursting but have not tried it.

We are still trying different hop varieties but haven't tried many new methods yet.

For a FWH addition, you add the hops (about 1/3 of your flavor aroma additions) to the boil kettle as you are draining your MT. This allows the hops to steep while your BK is filling. I do this with my APA and love the results. You can also do it if you BIAB. Just toss the FWH addition in right when you pull the bag. Should give you 15-20 minutes of steeping while you drain/sparge or whatever your process is before the boil starts.

I find with First Wort Hopping the bitterness is still there just not as sharp as with a 60 addition.

Usually by the time my tun finishes draining and I start the boil its about 45 minutes.

Good info. I may try FWH with my next AG batch.

My hop strategy is twofold:
1. Replicating a beer I have tasted that I really like. A clone recipe usually gets me there.
2. Finding a recipe that looks promising, utilizing hops that I already have on hand.

Brewbirds wrote:We have been doing hop stands lately and have been pleased with the results.

We haven't done first wort addition before, that is where you put the hops in during the mash?

I don't get how that works as I keep reading that the boil is required to break down the insoluble resins so the alpha acids become soluble in the wort.

I have also heard of hop bursting but have not tried it.

We are still trying different hop varieties but haven't tried many new methods yet.

BB's do not put the hops in the mash. Add it to your PM wort or steep after the mash. Let sit for 20 mins ar so. How long does it take for you to get your boil volume up to a boil? The hops are added pre-boil. Remain in the kettle through the boil and the chill down. Add all your other hops per schedule. To get bitter you do the boil. Hop bursting is basically adding hops continuously through out the boil Ala Dogfish 90, 120.... anyone up to a 240 hop burst brew?? There is a technique called mash hopping. I did try it basically it is a waste of hops

I think of continuous wort hopping (IE dogfish 120 or 90 or 60) as something different from hop bursting. I consider hop bursting to be the vast majority of your hops going in < 30 minutes, with a good bit of the bittering coming from those additions as well as the flavor/aroma. If I use a bittering addition at all when I hop burst, it's just something like 1/8 or 1/4oz of magnum early in the boil and then everything else 30 minutes or <... mostly 20 minutes or <.

I'm trying my first dry hop, and screwed up a little already. The hops were supposed to go in on Sunday and then I was to bottle a week later.
Hops didn't go in until Thursday.

So, if I've got a 5 gallon batch, what is the minimum amount of time I want to leave the hops in the fermenter?

I'm a little worried, because Sunday will be 3 weeks fermenting.

I've started dry hopping 2 days before bottling.

The Hat tells us that he read an article or listened to a podcast (don't recall which) that said dry hops impart the most aroma if done 24 hours before bottling.

I've moved from 7 days to 2 days. I'm not sure I buy the 24 hours but who knows.

Wow a lot of great info here. Thanks for starting this thread. Helps get more understanding of so many different techniques using hops. Adjusting bitter, flavor and aroma, all great things. There are so many different hop varieties out there with different profiles too. How do choose which one , where and when during the process can really make a nice difference in the beer.

Hop Variety Handbook is a great reference for home-brewers written in plain brew speak that we understand

I'm glad this topic got posted. As a new brewer, I am trying to "understand" hop usage.

What significance does the AA rating play in bettering, flavor, aroma and dry hopping?
Is the AA rating a factor in determining how much hops to use?