BeerBorg

I think there might be a clue to this in a thred Alb posted. A rigorous boil will produce a clear beer.

I think that's true Rat, within limits. Not all of my boiling is vigorous, usually I settle for a light rolling boil. I just read an article linked here that also mentioned boil ph. My last batch was stovetop, two pots. The first got first runnings 1.066. The second pot got sparged wort at 1.022. There was no noticeable hot break in the second pot. That may be because there was only 1/3 the sugars and proteins in it, or because the ph wasn't right. I guess I'll know when I package that beer if it affects clarity. I am leaning toward fermenter time as a very big factor. I'm reading up on professional microbrewing. The author states that clarifying processes are important on a commercial level for faster turnover. The homebrewer can afford to wait three weeks for the beer to drop clear. The pro needs it much sooner. We also tolerate more sediment in the bottles.

I most always have clear beers. In the beginning that was because I really worked at it:
1. Whirlfloc tablet
2. Hop & grain bags
3. Rapid chilling
4. Bazooka screen in the kettle
5. Fine mesh strainer to aerate into the fermenter
6. Then secondary for 2 weeks, possible dry hop and/or oaking
7. A Hop Tea for Aroma and Flavor
8. A Large Yeast Start with nutrients Nutrients added to the wort all made with well water
GO AHEAD AND SAY IT!!! I KNOW YOU WANT TO



Now that I have been sick for so long all I want to do is brew

I hope you get to brew soon and often.

Here is what I do...
-Put in Irish Moss at 15 min before the end of the boil
-Roiling boil; not volcano/lava splashing, but rapid turnover
-Chill after boil, leaving most of the break in the kettle
-Straining between kettle & fermenter to keep large particles out
-Force carb beer in keg; after beer is carbonated, it is pretty clear after first pour!

Works pretty well for most beers... I do have a house favorite with wheat & rye malts that is not quite as clear as most though...

John Sand wrote:That's what Brulosopher concluded too. I highly recommend his blog, he tests every presumption in brewing.
I don't cold crash either, so I think my only conclusion is that fermenting three weeks helps, and adding everything to the fermenter doesn't hurt.

Thanks for mentioning his blog. I'm learning a lot from it.
One thing that I'm going to try is fermenting in my kettle.
I'm looking to brew small batch biab with a minimum of fuss.

Wilserbrewer, who makes BIAB bags, ferments in his kettle. I have fermented in 12qt pots, with mixed results. The best were from an enamel pot, no rivets to hide gunk. I think Wilser uses plastic wrap over the lid as security against infection. Just enough to keep drifting particles out, not to seal tight. My boil kettles are aluminum, I don't want to ferment in them.