BeerBorg

This goes for anyone working with their meter... There seems to be confusion out there about the ideal ranges for mash ph, boil ph, etc that we would use in brewing. Most anytime a ph is given for ideal mash ph, boil ph, finished beer ph it's all for a cooled sample at room temp 68-75* is close enough. For the most part that mash ph range is 5.2-5.6. So that is the actual reading you want to see on your meter for that room temp sample. Room temp is the standard that has been accepted and widely used for anything in brewing. I have been mis-informed in the past and confused on the matter myself but just keep in mind when you hear ph's referenced for brewing that is for room temp samples. That is also how it is calculated in brewing water calculators like EZ Water and Bru'n Water. The estimated ph is very accurate in either program, just have to keep in mind that estimate is for a room temp sample and what you should end up being close to and what your meter should actually be reading.

@MarBrewer glad you brought up that important point, not everyone makes the connection right away. In addition to temperature impacting pH readings it takes ions in the wort, or water, up to 20 minutes to stabilize. After adding minerals and salts, or when adjusting pH with acid or base, waiting for those changes to take hold will give the most accurate pH reading. The useful life of a pH meter's bulb is greatly diminished when readings are taken at mash temperatures. Before taking a pH reading, cooling the mash sample to near room temperature will extend the life of the bulb and give more accurate readings.
Sample of the mash that was cooled down before taking a pH reading.

Good stuff for us ph newbs.
So, after adding brewing salts to the plain water and taking a reading, you all take readings thru the mash and make further adjustments?????

If you are using brewing water calculators for water additions and know your water profile (hopefully tested) then you could rely on estimates in EZ water and Bru'n Water to be nearly spot on. They are very accurate at estimating mash ph when you imput all the correct info.

As far as adjusting, I usually pull a sample from the mash after I add brewing salts or acid, all mashed in and happy with my temps. That could be 5-10 mins. I cool the sample to 75* and take a reading. I'm usually dead on for what I want. If adjustment is needed (which is rare) I repeat the process with more additions and test again. At this point, I could basically trust the estimate in Bru'n Water to be enough for me, but I test anyway to be sure...you never know. Plus I check ph of other parts of the proces anyway, so it's just habit.

You should be able to trust a reading once it stabelizes after a minute or so. I know a true reading can take 10-15 mins but for "good enough" it doesn't take long. Taking a sample 5-10 min into the mash is also plenty of time for any chemical reactions to take place. Oh, you don't want to add minerals to plain water and then take a reading. The ph of the water is not important, you want to be measuring mash ph from a mash sample. You are better off just mixing in your additions at time of dough in. Except for any acid additions for the mash or sparge, you want to add those before heating.

I just got this Yesterday. It was 10.50 from Amazon Prime. I am not sure if I need to put it in a solution to store it or not. It hasn't been opened yet. I have no idea how to use this but I thought If I had the meter it would make me learn. Its so inexpensive what do I have to lose?

The next thing I'm thinking is regulating water chemistry, haven't read up on this yet, but should PH be one of the first things to do before adding anything else? It seems that PH is easy to adjust sense it was something I did in the Navy for our boilers on water quality.

Banjo-guy wrote:

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I just got this Yesterday. It was 10.50 from Amazon Prime. I am not sure if I need to put it in a solution to store it or not. It hasn't been opened yet. I have no idea how to use this but I thought If I had the meter it would make me learn. Its so inexpensive what do I have to lose?

If you do not plan on using it or a while you might want to set it in some solution in th cap to protect the bulb. As you first open it up, there migh be dried up solution on the bulb or tip and some white crystal, those will rinse off. Before using it you will want to calibrate it.

JohnSant wrote:The next thing I'm thinking is regulating water chemistry, haven't read up on this yet, but should PH be one of the first things to do before adding anything else? It seems that PH is easy to adjust sense it was something I did in the Navy for our boilers on water quality.

Is ph something to do first? As in one of the first things to improve your beer? Well, that depends...it may benefit one brewer more than the other depending on your brewing water and the styles you brew. I wouldn't say make it one of the first priorities over fermentation temp control, sanitation or anything like that. But I would focus on water quality and checking my ph before thinking a shinny new conical fermenter or Automated system will make my beer better. Nothing wrong with those items, just explaining my point.

Thanks MadBrewer (should have posted this in the Water thread) I see your point but mine is a little different. I prefer to get the brewing process down (all the equipment that it takes to get to beer) then move to improve the quality of said product. I feel I now have what I need to get me there so now I need to start with technique of process ingredients to get me there. (Plus all the new toys just make me have thrill up my leg).

Oh I understand. Im a gadget freak myself. That was just an example. If you are brewing good beers thats always great. Checking and djusting your mash ph if needed is just one of those things that can make it better.

Beer-lord wrote:Good stuff for us ph newbs.
So, after adding brewing salts to the plain water and taking a reading, you all take readings thru the mash and make further adjustments?????

@Beer-lord not all the time but sometimes. This particular Brown Ale was brewed a little over a week ago, the treated water pH value measured close to 6.00. According to EZwatercalculator when the water was mixed with grains in the mash the pH value would be 5.42. The actual mash pH value was 5.43, only differing from the calculated value by a mere 0.01, more than well within the margin of error for most brewers.

For the most part, I use the water calculator and add the minerals to the water before adding the grains. Most of what I've read has suggested this but not having a PH meter, it was a moot point.
My meter is on the way and I should have it in a day or two and will try things out on my next brewday very soon.

I found this web site from Weyermann Malt very interesting about brewing ph.
http://www.weyermann.de/downloads/pdf/W ... H_2010.pdf


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I just ordered a Hanna pH Checker Plus. I figure that if I'm going to try to make a Berliner Weiss later this spring, one of these will surely come in handy.