Ricklust wrote:Thanx...
That clears things up for me. Will proceed with ur advice.
On another note, I was totally surprised when the wort I received was in a can and a syrup like mixture. I assume this is because of the small amount of beer to be brewed. (2 gallons). I assumed all recipes had dry ingredients. Looks like it will be a month or more before tasting.
What came in the can is Liquid Malt Extract (LME). Actually, since you're beginning with BrewDemon, it's Hopped Malt Extract (HME). There are LMEs that have no hops added. There are also Dry Malt Extracts (DME). All of these formulations are extracts; it's just that the DME has pretty much all the liquid taken out of it.
The wort is what you're creating with the HME and water, before you pitch the yeast. Wort is unfermented beer, is what it is.
As far as LME vs. DME, it's Brewer's Choice. Both are just fine and dandy for making beer. I prefer DME, myself, but some others can get LME in bulk and store it for their brewing. Depends on what suits your needs.
Up Next: Moon Shot Double IPA Fermenting/Conditioning 2Daves Irish Red Ale -- Ladybug Lager Drinking: FedoraDave's American Ale -- Schöenwald Schwarzbier -- Littlejohn's Ale -- King Duncan's Porter
Ricklust wrote:Thanx...
That clears things up for me. Will proceed with ur advice.
On another note, I was totally surprised when the wort I received was in a can and a syrup like mixture. I assume this is because of the small amount of beer to be brewed. (2 gallons). I assumed all recipes had dry ingredients. Looks like it will be a month or more before tasting.
What came in the can is Liquid Malt Extract (LME). Actually, since you're beginning with BrewDemon, it's Hopped Malt Extract (HME). There are LMEs that have no hops added. There are also Dry Malt Extracts (DME). All of these formulations are extracts; it's just that the DME has pretty much all the liquid taken out of it.
The wort is what you're creating with the HME and water, before you pitch the yeast. Wort is unfermented beer, is what it is.
As far as LME vs. DME, it's Brewer's Choice. Both are just fine and dandy for making beer. I prefer DME, myself, but some others can get LME in bulk and store it for their brewing. Depends on what suits your needs.
Will add a sidenote to this, For the HME's that come as DrewDemon and Mr Beer among others, you do not want to boil these you only want to add these at flameout. Boiling will make much more bitter than should be.
Currently Conditioning:
Cherry Mead
California Moscato
Currently enjoying:
Hardly Apple Cider on tap
Hardly Cherry Lime-Aid on tap
Oktoberfestive-Ale on tap
PGA Cider (Pear, Ginger, Apple) on tap 3rd Founders Cup 2016 King Of The Mountain on tap
Bottoms Up Brown on tap GOLD 2016 Ohio Brew Week Silver 2016 Ohio State Fair Silver 2016 Son of Brewzilla, Silver 2015 Son of Brewzilla, Bronze 2015 King Of The Mountain on tap
NITWIT BELGIAN STRONG ALE Banjo-Dawg RCE bottled
DAWG LB PALE ALE bottled
CITRA SLAPPED AMBER ALE bottle
MO FREEDOM SMaSH bottle
HOP TO IT IMPERIAL IPA bottle
I am a big believer on the 3 weeks in the fermenter on MB and BD brewing and even without a hydro. you are usually quite safe at that time. And as Herb said, most likely it is done fermenting in a week or less if temps are right, but why take a chance, let it go longer and be safe. After you do more and more batches and get the right yeast and pitch rates and good gravity readings, you can cut that time way down before you bottle, but even with that a lot of beers improve in the bottle with aging. I am drinking some stouts today that was bottled close to a year ago and are really good, but almost out of them now...
Happy Hound Brewery
“I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.”
― Thomas A. Edison
There is no reason NOT to follow 3/4 with the canned HMEs, it results in better beer.
I have over 9,000 posts on "another forum", which means absolutely nothing. Mr. Beer January 2014 Brewer of the Month with all the pomp and circumstance that comes with it...
Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology
Beers I regularly brew:
Bell's Best Brown clone
Irish Hills Red - I call this "Ann Arbor Red"
Mackinac Island Red - I call this "Michigan Red"
Oatmeal Stout - I call this Not Fat, Stout - Oatmeal Stout
Bottled 5 gallons of Ann Arbor Red on 4/18/17. Bottled 5 gallons of Michigan Red on 5/8/17.
Brewed in 2017 - 22.13 gallons (19.91 in 2012, 48.06 in 2013, 61.39 in 2014, 84.26 in 2015,46.39 in 2016)
Brewed in lifetime - 282.14 gallons
Drinkable beer on hand - 13.58 cases, with 6.11 cases ready in May and early June.
Average cost per 12 pack through all beer brewed - $6.27(ingredients only)
berryman wrote:I am drinking some stouts today that was bottled close to a year ago and are really good, but almost out of them now...
Agree. I've been drinking my 2014 Christmas Ale throughout this holiday season. That kind of aging is selective... I wouldn't age an IPA, pale ale, or pils that long, but you certainly can sit on beefier beers. And, like others have said, patience on the front end is your friend. I bottle some things once it's done (even after just a week after proper hydrometer readings), but most go 2-3 weeks. I have a cider that's been in ferment since April... some sours that sit that long as well.
As brewers, all we need is just a little...
Swenocha is a vast bastard of brewing knowledge - Wings_Fan_In_KC
Fermenting:
nada... zip...
Drinking:
nada... zip... maybe an N/A beer here and there...