Mash and Boil for 250.00

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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by BlackDuck »

Wow...what is that junk?
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

It smelled of Juniper, so I think it was Juniper resin combined with proteins from the mash. I think the resin made them sticky enough to actually stick.

I finally got it off, but my unit won't start. Someone told me I have to push the button until it "clicks", I have just been pushing it to where it "stops", not hearing any "click". I will try pushing it harder later and see if it works, I have to run for now.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by berryman »

mashani wrote:It smelled of Juniper, so I think it was Juniper resin combined with proteins from the mash. I think the resin made them sticky enough to actually stick.

I finally got it off, but my unit won't start. Someone told me I have to push the button until it "clicks", I have just been pushing it to where it "stops", not hearing any "click". I will try pushing it harder later and see if it works, I have to run for now.
Yes it should click, make sure the rod is lined up with the re-set. that is a poor design there. I am guessing by your pic. that is what tripped it but should re-set unless something else went bad. I had a few ER4's early on but not lately but haven't brewed all this summer. I have about 15 5 gal. batches or so though mine.
Edit: I'm sure you prolly did it. but did you unplug it? I have to do that once and awhile with our new hi-tech washing machine to re-set it. technology is good sometimes.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

Yes, I was unplugging it.

I flipped it over and fiddled with the post and found the right way to push it to make it "click". And now it works and boils water, so I think I'm good.

I couldn't get it to push that far the other day, it just "stopped" and pushing any harder made my finger hurt. I think maybe the post and the hole it must go into aren't perfectly aligned somewhere in the guts.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by berryman »

mashani wrote:Yes, I was unplugging it.

I flipped it over and fiddled with the post and found the right way to push it to make it "click". And now it works and boils water, so I think I'm good.

I couldn't get it to push that far the other day, it just "stopped" and pushing any harder made my finger hurt. I think maybe the post and the hole it must go into aren't perfectly aligned somewhere in the guts.
It does push hard to click and I think the little rod can miss the reset sometimes. I made a tool to push the little rod instead of with my finger. Glad you got it working :cheers:
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

berryman wrote:I made a tool to push the little rod instead of with my finger.
That is a good idea, what did you make it from? That little rod is painful to push on with my skinny fat free fingers. I was thinking about trying to find some kind of rubber "knob" thing I could stick on the end.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by bpgreen »

I get a little residue on the bottom after every batch, but it's more of a light brown color and always comes off easily with a soak in PBW or Oxiclean. Glad you were able to get it reset. I'll try to remember these hints if it happens to me.

As an aside, has anybody used one of these to do an extract batch? I think I've got some LME in my freezer. I should probably use it up. I could do a full volume boil in the M&B, but I could also do a partial mash and follow my old process.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

I used a pound of DME in one batch but it was still mostly based on grains. I didn't have any trouble doing that, I just turned it off, added the DME and stirred until it dissolved.

I also have added candi syrup to some batches without trouble, doing it the same way.

I think LME would tend to go more straight to the bottom and scorch more easily, so you probably want to make sure the burner isn't still very hot and that the LME is very well integrated and you scrape along the bottom a good bit with a mash paddle before you turn the burner back on. If it pooled up in the little depression where the burner was it could easily scorch and turn into something like what I got I'm afraid.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by berryman »

mashani wrote:
berryman wrote:I made a tool to push the little rod instead of with my finger.
That is a good idea, what did you make it from? That little rod is painful to push on with my skinny fat free fingers. I was thinking about trying to find some kind of rubber "knob" thing I could stick on the end.
I used a old screwdriver that I cut the Philips off the end and drilled in a ways with a slightly bigger drill then the rod is. you can get a good grip on a screwdriver handle. There would be many other ways of doing it, but what I thought up first. I don't know how much room you got underneath the unit and I don't have a lot on my setup between the pumps but still easy to get to if needed. The only real complaint I have on the M&B is where and how the reset is. It doesn't happen often but when it does it makes me not real happy.....
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by Inkleg »

berryman wrote:
mashani wrote:
berryman wrote:I made a tool to push the little rod instead of with my finger.
That is a good idea, what did you make it from? That little rod is painful to push on with my skinny fat free fingers. I was thinking about trying to find some kind of rubber "knob" thing I could stick on the end.
I used a old screwdriver that I cut the Philips off the end and drilled in a ways with a slightly bigger drill then the rod is. you can get a good grip on a screwdriver handle.
Depending on space underneath a nut runner (screw handle devise with a shaft and socket on the end) a shallow socket attached to a extension or attached to a ratchet?
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by berryman »

Inkleg wrote: Depending on space underneath a nut runner (screw handle devise with a shaft and socket on the end) a shallow socket attached to a extension or attached to a ratchet?
Yup anything like that would work good. I have been preaching since I got My M&B and also in this thread, be prepared for a ER4, doesn't happen much but when you least expect it and usually when almost done with a otherwise uneventful brewday.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

berryman wrote:
Inkleg wrote: Depending on space underneath a nut runner (screw handle devise with a shaft and socket on the end) a shallow socket attached to a extension or attached to a ratchet?
Yup anything like that would work good. I have been preaching since I got My M&B and also in this thread, be prepared for a ER4, doesn't happen much but when you least expect it and usually when almost done with a otherwise uneventful brewday.
I actually have one of those. It would fit under the stand I put the M&B on, but it would be the tricky matter of getting the socket around metal pin properly without being able to see it easily. I'd have to feel for it with my finger and then try to line up the socket. The hole that I can get to it from in my stand is about 1" deep, and there is about 8" of space to work with below it. I could probably lie on my back and get my head in there but I really don't want to do that.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

Aftermath of my Roggenbier, even with a full step mash with a glucan & protein rest. Soaking in PBW, I assume the ERR4 will reset once I get that crap off of there.

EDIT: Yes, it reset after PBW did it's thing, I'm boiling some water in it now.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by berryman »

If any of you guys could take a close up pic. of the clips that seals the top on your newer version of the M&B I would appreciate it. I want to add them to my older version and would like to see what I am looking for. Not available from the manufacturer.
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Re: Mash and Boil for 250.00

Post by mashani »

Here you go. If it helps, it is about 4cm from the top of the metal bit that is welded on to the top of the lid, and about 5cm total length of the black rubber coated clip to where it wraps around the lid. The rubber coated handle is spring loaded so it always wants to pull itself towards the unit like in the second and 3rd image.
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