BeerBorg

bpgreen wrote:Once I clean a couple of kegs, I'll keg a stupid easy cider and a pale ale (it was supposed to be an IPA, but efficiency sucked as usual).

Next weekend, I'll probably try to start an IPA (I'll either use more grain or add some extract to make up for my poor efficiency).

Is the effeciency something new? What do you think is causing it?

2nd batch on my new system. Love, love, loving this unit. Yesterday's run went well, today should be even better and faster. Brewing up an Amber Ale with home toasted malt.

I brewed a Beer. Simply Beer Brown Ale 5G Extract w/steeping grains recipe from Midwest Supplies, Saturday. It made the whole house smell good. Afterwards, I went on a motorcycle ride, bought and had lunch with my lovely wife who was at a craft show. So yeah, it was a good day.

Back from a 2-week vacation and while not ready to work, I AM ready to brew. I'm hoping to knock out another Berliner Weiss this coming weekend.

MadBrewer wrote:

bpgreen wrote:Once I clean a couple of kegs, I'll keg a stupid easy cider and a pale ale (it was supposed to be an IPA, but efficiency sucked as usual).

Next weekend, I'll probably try to start an IPA (I'll either use more grain or add some extract to make up for my poor efficiency).

Is the effeciency something new? What do you think is causing it?

I've only been doing all grain since I got the mash and boil, so it's new in that respect.

I don't know what's causing it. If I knew, I'd fix it . I've tried adjusting the pH, the crush, mash temperatures, length of mash (even going overnight). Nothing so far seems to make much difference.

bpgreen wrote:

MadBrewer wrote:

bpgreen wrote:Once I clean a couple of kegs, I'll keg a stupid easy cider and a pale ale (it was supposed to be an IPA, but efficiency sucked as usual).

Next weekend, I'll probably try to start an IPA (I'll either use more grain or add some extract to make up for my poor efficiency).

Is the effeciency something new? What do you think is causing it?

I've only been doing all grain since I got the mash and boil, so it's new in that respect.

I don't know what's causing it. If I knew, I'd fix it . I've tried adjusting the pH, the crush, mash temperatures, length of mash (even going overnight). Nothing so far seems to make much difference.

What is your usual efficiency. What kind of water to grain to grain ratio?

I put my latest Pilsner on tap, it's over-carbed, but I think the taste is just right. I'm fairly pleased.

bpgreen wrote:

MadBrewer wrote:

bpgreen wrote:Once I clean a couple of kegs, I'll keg a stupid easy cider and a pale ale (it was supposed to be an IPA, but efficiency sucked as usual).

Next weekend, I'll probably try to start an IPA (I'll either use more grain or add some extract to make up for my poor efficiency).

Is the effeciency something new? What do you think is causing it?

I've only been doing all grain since I got the mash and boil, so it's new in that respect.

I don't know what's causing it. If I knew, I'd fix it . I've tried adjusting the pH, the crush, mash temperatures, length of mash (even going overnight). Nothing so far seems to make much difference.

Recently I read that some of the off brands of grain aren't as efficient as others. I looked into this after I bought the Morebeer Viking Malt as I did see some comments by some that some didn't get the efficiency they have with other grains. I chased Google around and saw a number of forum posts (some going back to 2007) discussing different brands and their problems.
In your case, it very well could be a number of things together.

I would also take a look at your thermometer and make sure it's accurate as well as stir the grains at least once every 15 minutes.

I think my efficeiency is around 60%.

I tried stirring and recirculating (with a pitcher and with a pump) for a few batches, but since it didn't seem to change things, I stopped doing those things.

I'm using the mash and boil, so I'm going by the thermostat it has, but I also checked the temperature once with a digital thermometer.

The bag for the two row I've been buyng says "craft master malteurop"

I ordered some Victory from the morebeer sale, so I'll see if that makes a difference.

I've been using the M&B recommendations for water, but I think that's too thick, so I'll also try a thinner mash.

Beer-lord wrote:Recently I read that some of the off brands of grain aren't as efficient as others. I looked into this after I bought the Morebeer Viking Malt as I did see some comments by some that some didn't get the efficiency they have with other grains. I would also take a look at your thermometer and make sure it's accurate as well as stir the grains at least once every 15 minutes.

FWIW I have had 0 efficacy problems with the Viking malts. They are not exactly an "off brand", it just seems so here. Pretty much all of the northern European farmhouse and macro/micro breweries use malts from them. Now some less modified but rare these days European (mostly German or Belgian) malts, sure you can have efficiency problems if you try to do a shorter mash duration or combine them with malts that can't self-convert. But this would not be the case with the Viking malts, as they are not under modified.

That said, I don't try to do 30 minute mashes or stuff like that.

If anything is happening to people it's just that their crush is set up for some kind of grain they are used to that has more plump kernels, and when they switch malt brands and the grains aren't as plump they don't crush to the same extent.

MoreBeers crush is pretty aggressive, there is always some flour in my bags, and I've gotten 78-80% mash efficiency repeatedly using Viking malt 2-row and pilsner as my base malt.

If the stuff BP is using is Malteurop grains that were malted in the US, they are European/co-op grains that could have come from many places, that were malted in a huge operation in Milwaukee WI. Which you know means that lots of them end up in certain brands of Macro beers because... that would be why there is a huge malting operation right there in Milwaukee. If those grains had horrible efficacy problems, they wouldn't be used by such people.

So, I really doubt it's the grain in of itself.

mashani wrote:I brewed an ESB, recipe I've used before because I like it, with Styrian Goldings instead of Fuggles, but that isn't a bad thing.

I bottled this, it is the kind of beer that you could drink right out of the fermenter/gravity poured the way it was, quite delicious, so it's going to be good to drink quickly after it carbs up.

Not brewing today but crushing grains for 3 batches. 1 - German Hefeweizen, 2 - Honey Rye Cream Ale 3 - Hefner Hefeweizen, then maybe a Summer Blonde (lawnmower brewski) if I can find the time. I'll be lucky to get the first 3 done. I will get everything crushed in preparation for my new GrainFather Connect use when it gets delivered. Probably get it Monday, do a good clean and fire it up Tues if all goes well. I have not brewed in close to a year, just made a cider 2 days back. When I heard that psssss from both my remaining kegs in da garage kegerator, I knew it was a sign, get busy you lazy butt... LOL

My Mash & Boil is currently mashing the Berliner Weiss while I work from home. It will likely be a 2+ hour mash since I can't attend to it every minute, but I don't *have* to either so all is good.

I'll bring to a quick boil post-mash, then drop to 95 and add the Lacto to work for 48 hours.

It's nice to have this flexibility.

Was able to get me some Strata hops and didn't hesitate to use them right away. Made what I hope to be a 5ish ABV pale. Hops smelled wonderful though not like weed or the beers I've tried with them. But, it was at 180 degrees.
Still, it was great to brew for Father's Day.

Beer-lord wrote:Was able to get me some Strata hops and didn't hesitate to use them right away.

^Needs to change his screen name to "Hop Hog"