fermentation temperature...too cool??

[Cheaptrix]

Ok....I feel like an idiot. My first two batches are complete and turned our not bad after 4-6 weeks conditioning. Both tasted a little cidery after 3 weeks, so I let sit a couple weeks more and they got better. I was assuming that my basement fermenting area temperature was 65-67 degrees, but when I finally got a thermometer down there, I found out it was a consistent 61.5 degrees. I know that this is a little cool, but it is cool enough to make the yeast go to sleep? I have been letting it sit 3 weeks during the fermentation. At this temp, should I be letting it ferment longer, or am I OK? I now have a hydrometer, but have a batch going now that i didn't get a OG reading on because I didn't buy the hydrometer until afterwards.

Thanks,
CheapTrix

[Gymrat]

It is cool enough to slow most ale yeasts down. Nottingham yeast would love that temperature.

[John Sand]

I found that MrBeer mixes take a while to condition. I fermented all last winter in the low 60s with those mixes. You'll be fine. I found it helped to carb them a little warmer, I just put them on top of the hutch. If you start doing 5 gallon batches (in time) the ferment will warm them from 60 to 65 or more. The small batches generate less heat. Get a thermometer strip to stick on the side. And don't worry, if the beer is good, you've succeeded.

[duff]

Getting a hydrometer is a good step. I will admit I have left a couple of beers on the yeast for 6 weeks due to life getting in the way and they did not have a problem. Even though I have done that most people suggest you don't want to go longer than 4 weeks. I've found that letting my batches go to 3 weeks seems to be a good spot and it fits into my schedule easier brew on the weekend and bottle on the week so I don't have other things getting in the way.

I have done both S-04 and US-05 batches at about 60 before I figured out that having the thermometer closer to the fermenter was more accurate. I also use the stick on thermometers on the fermenters to help determine temperature of the fermenting wort although it doesn't seem to be as important with smaller beer batches as it does with other things. But the S-04 and US-05 batches fermented about as much as they should but it took a lot longer than it does at 65.

I haven't had a new Mr. Beer recipe but the old recipes were a lot better with aging.

[FedoraDave]

The yeast wouldn't go to sleep at that temperature, but it would slow down the fermentation process, although the upside is, the beer might taste cleaner as a result.

I give all my beers three weeks before bottling, and now that my basement is in the low 60s, I'm glad I've adopted that timetable.

[mashani]

I found that MrBeer mixes take a while to condition. I fermented all last winter in the low 60s with those mixes.

My experience with the DownUnda yeast (Coopers) is that it really does not like the low 60s. It leaves lots of acetaldehyde (sour apple) flavors in the finished product right out of the fermenter and it takes a long time for it to condition out. It does a much better job fermented at 66+ degrees, and makes cleaner beer faster for me between 66-70.

So I save it for when my temps are going to end up in that range, and use S-05 or Nottingham or S-04 or similar when they will be lower.

[Cheaptrix]

FedoraDave,

So, do you think 3 weeks in the fermenter is still long enough at 61.5? or would you recommend letting it sit a little longer. I am coming up on 3 weeks in the next couple days and was planning on bottling, but can wait if recommended.

Thanks,

[mashani]

If you brewed straight up Mr. Beer batches and didn't add 2# of something else to it then it's probably done. It may be full of acetaldehyde fermented that cool with the downunda yeast, but it's done. Just try to condition it at a warmer temp to clean that up.

But you do not need an OG reading to use your new hydrometer. If you use it now and measure the current gravity, and then you measure it again in a couple of days and it hasn't changed at all, your done.