Ball lock kegs

[mtsoxfan]

I have gone through a 5# co2 after 2 kegs. Almost out I should say. I found leaks, fixed and thought I was all set.
When changing out a dead keg with a fresh Porter, I noticed if I wiggle, move, adjust... the call lock connector, I lose co2. It has new seals on the ball lock, I had changed out the white connectors to "new" grey ones, as MoreBeer thought they might be bad, and was taking care of a new customer. (not too shameless plug ) I was told they rebuild or change out the ball locks when they sell them.
Didn't work. Any ideas?

[russki]

Did you use keg lube on the post o-rings?

[Inkleg]

Isolate what side of the regulator the leak is coming from. Note (and write down, you will forget, ask me how I know. ) what the regulator is reading. Close the valve coming out of the regulator and the valve on the tank AND JUST WALK AWAY. Come back in a few hours and look. If the gauge reading has dropped, your leak is between the Co2 tank and out valve from the regulator. If not then it's from the regulator valve to your keg or your keg lid and isolate from there.

I spray the top of my kegs with Star-San, other fittings I dab with a mixture of dish soap (a lot) and a little water. Found a 20# tank killer leak where the pipe goes into the regulator. That fitting was assembled and "quality checked" from the place I bought it from, yeah right.

[haerbob3]

Every time I switch out a keg. I check the fittings. It is amazing how things get lose just sitting there. been kegging three years now still on my second tank. I had lose fittings on the regulator when I received it new.

[mtsoxfan]

Thanks, but I know where the leak is. It is on the ballock connector and ball lock. I do use lube, but only enough to lubricate it. Should it be slathered on? I only found it because when hooking it up, it was pissing out. If I let it go, it stops, but with any movement, like if the line gets hit, it pisses out. Like I said, I replaced the connectors already, and not looking forward to paying $34 for ss connectors. I'm hoping it was for a pair.

[Inkleg]

Just a light coat of lube will work. If you have replaced the connector, might it be the posts? Also the in and out O-rings are different sizes. Just trying to cover all bases.

[haerbob3]

I second that Ink!! Time to replace the posts. When I got my kegs from work, got 4 free ones from work. I replaced the rings put 30 psi in each. When I used them months later they were still tight. Did they pressure test yours when they were shipped mtsoxfan?

[mtsoxfan]

They did ship under pressure, as well as do a pressure test. They came in under pressure still. I have replacement o-rings, will try tomorrow. I guess it could happen, the guy in charge of replacing them before they go out says " they look ok, let's ship and go grab a cold beer". While I doubt the stainless ball lock wore out, stranger things have happened. Thanks for the heads up on two size o-rings.
At least I was smart enough to get all kegs with Firestone connectors when I ordered them (at two different times)

[Inkleg]

Here's some good information on keg O-rings. I ordered silicone O-rings for my gas post. The silicone rings are red and makes them easy to identify over the black out post O-rings.

[mtsoxfan]

As always Jeff, you've got the goods....
While changing out the o-ring worked, for the time being, I will look into the silicone. Someone must sell in lots smaller than 100 though. Even still, $10+/-is alot cheaper than a $17 refill of co2

On another note, the growler filler suggestion you gave me, using a stopper to prevent foaming worked great. Thanks again.

[Inkleg]

Your welcome Mike.
Everyone who has gone before me and shared their information has saved me from myself many times over (other times I learn the hard way) and I just try to pay it forward.

With one order I have enough keg O-rings to last the rest of my brewing career.

[mtsoxfan]

We all do what we can....