BeerBorg

I'm doing a Pale ale tomorrow and I'm looking for some pine aroma and using some Chinook (have 2 oz.) What would be the best times to add for the most pine, and will dry hopping bring any out? I'm using Willamette for bittering.
An extract with 1 LB Maillard Malts RGK -05 light and pale grains, 3.15 gold LME, 3.15 Amber LME, 1 LB Brun Leger light brown candi sugar 04 yeast.

Yup...using the Chinook is a good choice for some pine aroma. Adding some at 7 minutes or under will work just fine. If you want to use the entire two ounces, I would add .5 ounce at 5 minutes left and .5 ounces at flameout. Leave them in while you cool the wort. Then dry hop with one ounce for 5 days before cold crash. If you don't cold crash, then 5 days prior to bottling will work too.

Hope it comes out good for you.

I agree with Chris and using Chinook at bittering as well as flameout and dry hop is your best best to get your pine. You'll likely only need 1/2 oz dry hop to get you the aroma you want.

I assume that's a 5G batch? If so, I'd go with a full ounce for dry hop.

Or you could skip either the 5 minute addition or the flameout addition.....or not. You have lots of choices (which is both good and bad, I know).

Side note: What is the world coming to when Beer-lord recommends less hops than somebody else?!?!

Kealia wrote: Side note: What is the world coming to when Beer-lord recommends less hops than somebody else?!?!

Wondered that myself
Yes 5 gal. I was thinking along the same lines as everyone else that replied. What I am looking for here is not a very high IBU PA but with a nice pine finish. I have nothing in between the bittering (1 oz Willamette @60) and the finish and was thinking of 1/2 oz Chinook @ 20 but not looking for the Chinook flavor just the pine after. I haven't done the numbers on Q brew yet but I think I am close to what Im looking for on this one.................Love this forum, you guys are great on helping out.

If you're trying to get pine aroma and no flavor....then don't add them at the 20 minute mark. 20 minutes is the spot for the flavor addition. If you're only trying to get aroma, add at 7 minutes or under, which includes flameout and dryhopping.

And Paul must be sick or something...."likely only need 1/2 oz dry hop" he says.

Hey, its a pale ale and they aren't normally dry hopped. But if it were my beer...........

I dry hop my pale ales....ask Ron how that works out!!!

Not being a smart a**(this time anyway)...Anybody thought of just dry hopping a handful of pine needles? After all you can use them to make tea. Ala Euell Gibbons

No, but my first thought was to pick up some Simcoe for the dry hop. I assumed berryman didn't want to pick up anything else so I didn't suggest it.
I like to dry hop my pale ales, too - and yeah, BlackDuck knows what he's doing!

Good luck berryman.

Personally, I rarely dry hop any beer with anything less than 2 oz.
And JJ, I've seen beers with pine in the boil but not dry hopped.

Beer-lord wrote:Personally, I rarely dry hop any beer with anything less than 2 oz.
And JJ, I've seen beers with pine in the boil but not dry hopped.

so your the reason there's a hop shortage. so be a pathfinder.

Kealia wrote:No, but my first thought was to pick up some Simcoe for the dry hop. I assumed berryman didn't want to pick up anything else so I didn't suggest it.

I was going to but my LHBS was out of Simcoe when I was there Sat.

jimjohson wrote:Not being a smart a**(this time anyway)...Anybody thought of just dry hopping a handful of pine needles? After all you can use them to make tea. Ala Euell Gibbons

Jim, I forgot that beer can be brewed with real pine (like in old times ) and I done a little research on it this morning. I made a beer a couple years ago something like what I'm brewing today and I used some spruce essence and I think I over did it a little , it was strong on the pine smell, a little of that stuff goes a long way.

berryman wrote: Jim, I forgot that beer can be brewed with real pine

Many parts are eatable.

You know I can't find that Grape Nuts commercial with Euell Gibbons saying that.

The chinook should be good enough.

But if you want to play with real pine.

You have to be careful with real pine, not all types and/or ages (of needles/fronds) are good for beer or consumption. Pine notes are good, turpentine not so much. Real juniper is good, but there are other juniper like trees that are not good.

We had some discussion of Sahti/Juniper in beer on here somewhere, there would be more info on that thread.

Some cracked dried juniper berries (1/2oz is not too much for a 2.5 gallon batch) late in the boil is really nice if your into piney stuff too. I've liked every beer I've done that in.