BeerBorg

i have a 5 gallon orange IGLOO round cooler. i want to put a metal nozzle on it so i unscrewed the plastic spigot. i have 2 issues.

1- hole size: sometime somewhere rubbermaid changed the diameter of the hole for the spigot to 7/8"

2- NO RUBBER INSERT (GASKET). there is a flat washer-like gasket that sits between the wall inside and the inner plastic anchor parts for the spigot.

how can i convert this ??? i cant find a single design so far that shows what to do with no inner rubber gasket.


Q1: can i insert a 5/8" ID rubber grommet inside the cooler, put a 5/8" x 1.5" nipple through this and build the nozzle on this?

advice?

This is how I converted my 5 gallon cooler...

http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/12/ ... h-tun.html

I followed Screwey's instructions also. But found that I needed a couple of extra o-rings to create a good seal. I was leaking a little liquid in between the cooler walls at first. I remember added an o-ring or two on the inside also to make sure that it was sealed. I also had to add a number of washers on the outside of the cooler to make sure I had clearance to operate the lever. I'll take a few pics tonight when I get home.

i was looking at screwy's design too but he uses a 3/8" nipple. the hole is 7/8" diameter. there is no rubber inner gasket in the cooler that would keep the nipple from sliding around off center and causing leaks.

what if i use a 3/4" nipple and valve... 3/4 " is 6/8 leaving just 1/8" or 1/16" on either side that needs a washer or gasket?


cant see how 3/8 would work without that darn rubber gasket they so conveniently stopped using.

Now that you mention it, I used a 3/4" valve on mine.

watched a youtube video (how to build the best mash tun from a cooler). his cooler was like mine.. no gasket / odd size hole. he gets past this using 1/2 inch nipple which he Teflon tapes on the valve side. he used a 3/4 inch silicone gasket (flat) that fits over the nipple, a metal washer and a lock nut. I guess with everything synched down tight enough it wont leak though I cant for the life of me see what would keep the nipple stationary.

Q: in theory at least, if the ball valve and lock nut are tight, would the thing be stable despite the 7/8" hole bored in the cooler wall?

I would use 3/4" parts but am having a hell of a time locating a source for stainless 3/4 inch nipples, nuts, valves etc....

my local home depot and lowes are a huge joke...as is most everything here.

My cooler mashtun now is a 48 qt square Igloo cooler. It didn't have a pre-drilled hole. I drilled a 7/8 hole and use a 1/2 in ball valve. On the inside is a Bazooka Screen with a 1/2 nipple on the end. As you said, the OD of the 1/2 nipple is close enough to the 7/8. To flat silicone washers along with a S/S washer on each side. The Bazooka Screen goes through the hole and screws into the ball valve on the outside. A little teflon tape and it all works out fo rme.

On my brew kettle I drilled the same 7/8 hole and use a 1/2 nipple going through the hole with silicone and s/s washers on each side and a 1/2 s/s nut on the inside. On my kettle a little more teflon is needed to fill the gap to keep the setup from leaking, but it works out well in both cases.

If you are having trouble sourcing S/S fittings or washers you might have to look online. Or settle for lead free brass.

First...I need to correct my previous thought. I had said that I used a 3/4" valve, wrong....it's a 1/2 valve. I had my golf league last night, so I didn't get a chance to take the pics. Was going to do that this morning, but my phone was dead. It's plugged in now, so hopefully I'll get enough charge before I leave for work to get a couple of pics for you. Unfortunately, I don't remember what size hole I used. Stay Tuned....

Here are the pictures.
I remember why I had to use all the washers for spacers. I originally bought the 2 inch pipe that was threaded on both ends. This is the part that goes through the cooler wall and you connect the valve on the outside and the nipple end on the inside. Unfortunately, the 2 inch was too short so I bought the 3 inch. Which was more than I needed, so I used the washers as spacers. Again, this is the 1/2 ball valve, not a 3/4 inch as I incorrectly mentioned earlier.

Outside ballvalve: Close up of the outside: Here is the picture of the inside (man that is dirty):

Yep. I had to use a few extra washers too. You do what you need to to make it work. And who cares about a little extra dirtiness. The boil will take care of it.