Hop growing guide
Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:56 pm
I'm going to preface this with something for dog lovers.
Hops can be deadly to dogs. But the hop cones that have the compounds that affect dogs usually form 10 feet above the ground or more. I had a dog that would eat ANYTHING (if you've ever had dogs and cats at the same time, you can understand some of the barriers I set up). She ignored the bines. And the hop cones were high enough that if they had been attractive, she couldn't have reached them.
I think hops are mostly dangerous when they're mixed in with the grains and/or wort, since the sweetness is an attraction.
I posted this in another thread, but I've given away a number of rhizomes this year and I would imagine people have purchased rhizomes as well, so I think this is worth repeating. It may even be worth making it a sticky for others who are growing hops. I welcome any critiques and criticisms and if this is made a sticky, I'll try to incorporate what others have learned. I've also made a few updates to it.
Parts of what I've included in this are based on various things I've read on the internet, but most of it is based on my own experience. As with so many things, YMMV.
Hops are very hardy and will grow in most areas of the United States. They can tolerate a wide range of soil pH (from around 5.5, which is very acidic to around 8, which is very alkaline). There are even hops growing wild in the Salt Lake Valley, where we get almost no rain during the growing season. They have long tap roots that allow them to grow even when there is little rain. Hops propagate in two ways: sexually (from seeds in the female plants) and asexually (by way of specialized roots known as rhizomes. Hops grown from rhizomes are exact replicas (like clones) of the parent plant. Seeds will produce plants with characteristics of both parents, so the results are unpredictable. Commercial growers sometimes grow hops from seeds to see if the result may be a good new variety, but most home growers will do best growing from rhizomes.
Technically, hops are bines. Bines are similar to vines, but vines can grow up along surfaces, clinging to them with some type of sucker. Bines climb by wrapping around some sort of support. They can wrap around smaller wood support, such as something along the lines of a trellis, but they can not wind around large posts. I use twine running from the ground to a support higher up. In the past, I've used an eye bolt attached to the siding, but as my bines have grown larger, they need something stronger. This year, I plan to use fencing materials.
Because the AA% of homegrown hops are unknown, many people use them for flavor and aroma only, but if your production gets high enough, you can use your hops for bittering, as well, although it may require some trial and error to get the right amounts. I've made a few batches with all homegrown hops and just guessed at how much to use, using the default in BeerSmith for the hop I'm using.
Planting Rhizomes
Rhizomes are specialized roots that shoot out horizontally from the hop plant and new plants grow from the rhizomes. The rhizomes can be dug up and replanted to get new plants.
The first thing to do when preparing to plant your rhizomes is to find a good spot. Hops like to climb, so you need to pick a spot that will allow the plants to climb. They also need a lot of sunlight, so make sure you plant them where they get plenty of sunlight (I planted several plants on the north side of the house and the difference between those and the ones on the west side of the house are significant).
Dig a trench about 4 inches deep and long enough for the rhizome you're planting. Some people advocate adding organic matter to the soil that was removed, but I'm a proponent of returning the native soil to the planting bed and top dressing with organic matter. If you add organic matter to the soil before returning it to the planting bed, you risk creating a horizon between the two soils that may make it difficult for the roots to penetrate the lower soil. If you top dress, the organic matter will slowly work its way down, and the soil will change gradually. Having a trench with soil that is much looser than the soil around it can also lead to what is sometimes called a bathtub effect, where water drains to the trench and stays there, which can lead to waterlogged soil and may cause the roots to rot.
Plant the rhizome anywhere from 1-4 inches below the soil (that's what I originally wrote based on what I'd read, but I would now suggest planting them 1" deep so they don't have to work too hard to get to the surface). Planting too deeply may mean that the bines will not make it to the surface before the reserves in the rhizome run out (this is especially likely with very thin rhizomes that do not have much in the way of reserves).
Some people will plant two rhizomes of the same variety together to maximize chances that at least one will grow, but the only time I've had a rhizome fail to grow was when I got it too late, planted it in the heat of summer and was traveling so that I couldn't keep it watered often enough.
Plant rhizomes of the same variety 3-4 feet apart. Keep different varieties at least 5 feet apart.
If you can identify buds (they may be white, but some may have a red or purple tint to them), plant the rhizomes so the buds are up. If you can't identify any buds, if you can find some roots, plant with the roots down. If you can't find any roots or buds, just set the rhizome in; it will "figure out" which way is up and which is down (they're better at that than some people I've known).
Growing Hops in Pots (porch/deck growing)
Every guide I've read says that hops should not be grown in pots because the roots need too much room. However, I know that there are people who have successfully grown hops in pots.
Since I haven't tried to grow hops in pots, this is all second hand. But it is based on feedback from people who have grown hops in containers.
First, use the biggest container you can find. I've heard of success stories when people used 20 gallon containers, so when I say use a big container, that gives some perspective.
I haven't raised hops in containers, but based on other plant growing, I would not use top soil, but would instead use potting soil (which often does not have any actual soil).
Some of the fertilization tips are also off base with container gardening. Since you've got a soil-less growing medium, you need to use fertilizers aimed at houseplants, not the high nitrogen fertilizers that I use. Spent grains would be a particularly bad idea with containers.
If you're trying to contain your hops, you'll need to make sure the roots don't leave the pots.
Trimming
One plant will produce many bines. Although it is tempting to let all of the bines grow, you should trim all but two or three of the strongest bines from each plant. If you leave too many bines growing, they will cause overcrowding and not allow enough air and light in and the plants will suffer as a result.
Once the bines are several feet tall, trim the leaves from the first foot or so.
Watering
The first year, you will want to water fairly frequently. Keep the ground moist, but not wet. Until the plant develops a good root system, it needs more frequent water, but if it has too much water, it can rot. In subsequent years, it is much better to water infrequently and deeply, letting the soil dry between waterings. I watered every other day the first year and once a week in following years. Adjust the watering schedule for any natural precipitation (not really an issue for me, but not everybody lives in the desert).
Fertilizing
Note: The fertilizing recommendations below are for "traditional" hops. I managed to kill some neomexicanus hops following this approach. I'll add more information once I learn more about fertilizing neomexicanus hops.
I've been told that neo mexicanos hops should not be fertilized AT ALL for the first year or two, and that after that, they should be fertilized lightly.
Hops grow fast. At their peak, they can grow as much as a foot a day. It is common for them to grow a foot or two in a week. To feed this growth and to ensure they are able to develop healthy root systems, they need a fair amount of fertilizer, primarily nitrogen. If your soil is lacking in other nutrients, you may need to use a balanced fertilizer, but I generally use either urea (39/43-0-0) or ammonium sulfate (21-0-0). These are both fast acting fertilizers, so take care not to use too much at one time, or you can burn the plants and kill them. Fertilize once the bines have leaves. If you fertilize before that, the fertilizer will simply leach out before it can be used. I generally fertilize once a month in the spring and early summer. When it is getting close to the time the bines will start producing flowers, they should not be fertilized with a high nitrogen fertilizer because nitrogen produces growth and suppresses flowers. In the first year, you may want to fertilize monthly all year in order to promote growth, since you may not get much of a harvest the first year, anyway.
You can also fertilize with organic matter. Since organic fertilizers release nitrogen slowly, they can be used throughout the growing season. I add about a cup of spent grains to each plant every time I brew during the growing season.
Compost
Technically, compost is an amendment, not a fertilizer. Compost usually doesn't add an appreciable amount of N,P,K. Compost is used to add organic matter and beneficial microbes.
In my opinion, the greatest benefit from compost is from the microbes. The next biggest benefit from compost is from the organic matter it has (organic matter in compost is already partially broken down, so it is better than "raw" organic matter). I don't think bagged compost has much value. Home made compost is better and compost from a garden center or a municipal composting center is also good.
Compost can be applied at any time and as often as you want and can be applied as heavily as you want as long as you don't risk smothering the plants.
Pest Control
There are a number of pests that can affect hops. Insects such as aphids and cutworms can be a problem, as can mites. Mites are technically arthropods, not insects, but most insecticidal defenses are also effective against mites. Powdery mildew and downy mildew can also cause problems.
Some people use organic insecticides, thinking they are not harmful to people. While this is true of some organic insecticides, choices such as pyrethrum and nicotine, while organic, are highly toxic.
Sometimes insects and arthropods can be controlled without any insecticides. Simply spraying the plants with a strong stream of water can dislodge mites and aphids. If they are sent far enough from the plant, it is unlikely they will be able to return. Mites climb from the soil, where they overwinter. Eliminating leaves near the ground may make it difficult for them to gain a foothold on the plant. I had a mite infestation on one bine one year, and the following year, I cut the leaves near the ground and didn't have a recurrence. I don't think spraying is effective against cutworms, but I have no direct experience.
If spraying doesn't work, you may be able to control the pests using diatomaceous earth and/or insecticidal soap. In order for these to be effective, you need to know how they work. DE is made of fossilized skeletons of diatoms (a type of hard shelled algae). It works by making scratches on the exeoskeletons of the insects and arthropods. Water then leaks out of the insect and the insect dries up and dies. If it is humid enough when the DE is used, there will be time for the scratches to heal before death occurs. Insecticidal soap works by blocking the pores, so the pest essentially suffocates.
There are also a number of other pesticides, both chemical and organic, that can be used to control these pests, but I've had good results with these methods.
Insecticidal soap and DE are completely safe for people, but any other insecticides need to be used long enough in advance of harvest that they are no longer active, or you will need to ensure that you wash the cones well enough to remove nay traces of poisons.
Mildew can usually be controlled by trimming the bines so there is sufficient airflow, watering only in the morning and ensuring that you don't overwater.
Harvesting
Depending on your growing season, you may harvest only one time, or you may be able to harvest several times. Hop cones are ready to harvest when they are somewhat dry and papery to the feel. They should also have a fair amount of yellow lupulin inside. To harvest, simply pick the cones from the bines. I find that if I don't wear gloves, the bines scratch me and cause a rash.
I dried my hops the first year by placing them in a paper bag and letting them sit out to air dry. This worked fairly well with a small amount, but it helps that the humidity rarely makes it to double digits here. Even with my low humidity, for the second year, I bought a food dehydrator. I then weighed hops into roughly 1 oz batches, vacuum sealed them and put them in the freezer. I originally bought a really cheap dehydrator, but my brother discovered that if you dehydrate at higher temperatures, you can get poor results. So I bought a high end dehydrator when it was on woot for a fraction of the regular price. There are plenty of dehydrators in between those that cost $25 and those that cost hundreds of dollars. If you're dealing with smaller quantities, I think the HF version is sufficient.
After the final harvest, cut all of the bines and remove them. I compost, but I discard the bines because I don't actively compost in the fall/winter months and if the compost doesn't get hot enough, the bines may develop roots and grow.
Propagation
If you want more hop plants, either for yourself or others, there are several ways to get them.
The most common is to dig up rhizomes. Typically, you will start seeing rhizome production around the third year. During the first two years, the hops are mostly working on developing a strong root system (down, not out).
You can also take one of your "extra" bines and stick it into a pot filled with dirt and water it regularly. To ensure you get it to root, make sure a bud where leaves would be produced is under the dirt. You may have better results if you coat the part of the bine that you put under the ground with rooting hormones. Let it grow while still connected to the mother plant for most of the season. It should put down roots before a month or so is up, but you may want to leave it in the pot (connected to the mother) for a couple of months to ensure it is strong enough to survive on its own. When it is ready, simply cut it from the mother plant, carefully remove the plant and soil from the pot and transplant it.
A related approach is to simply cut a piece of bine and stick it in a pot of dirt (watering regularly). As with the prior method, ensure that the section of bine that is underground has at least one bud. Rooting hormone may also help.
Another related approach is to bury a section of the bine after harvesting. It should develop roots at every bud/leaf node (this is based on what I've read; I haven't been successful with this method).
I've had excellent results with rhizomes and with burying a section of bine during the growing season. I haven't had any luck burying part of the bine after harvesting and have had limited success burying a section of bine in a pot (although results were better when I used a rooting hormone).
Edited on 2018-01-22 to add comment about fertilizing neomexicanus hops.
Hops can be deadly to dogs. But the hop cones that have the compounds that affect dogs usually form 10 feet above the ground or more. I had a dog that would eat ANYTHING (if you've ever had dogs and cats at the same time, you can understand some of the barriers I set up). She ignored the bines. And the hop cones were high enough that if they had been attractive, she couldn't have reached them.
I think hops are mostly dangerous when they're mixed in with the grains and/or wort, since the sweetness is an attraction.
I posted this in another thread, but I've given away a number of rhizomes this year and I would imagine people have purchased rhizomes as well, so I think this is worth repeating. It may even be worth making it a sticky for others who are growing hops. I welcome any critiques and criticisms and if this is made a sticky, I'll try to incorporate what others have learned. I've also made a few updates to it.
Parts of what I've included in this are based on various things I've read on the internet, but most of it is based on my own experience. As with so many things, YMMV.
Hops are very hardy and will grow in most areas of the United States. They can tolerate a wide range of soil pH (from around 5.5, which is very acidic to around 8, which is very alkaline). There are even hops growing wild in the Salt Lake Valley, where we get almost no rain during the growing season. They have long tap roots that allow them to grow even when there is little rain. Hops propagate in two ways: sexually (from seeds in the female plants) and asexually (by way of specialized roots known as rhizomes. Hops grown from rhizomes are exact replicas (like clones) of the parent plant. Seeds will produce plants with characteristics of both parents, so the results are unpredictable. Commercial growers sometimes grow hops from seeds to see if the result may be a good new variety, but most home growers will do best growing from rhizomes.
Technically, hops are bines. Bines are similar to vines, but vines can grow up along surfaces, clinging to them with some type of sucker. Bines climb by wrapping around some sort of support. They can wrap around smaller wood support, such as something along the lines of a trellis, but they can not wind around large posts. I use twine running from the ground to a support higher up. In the past, I've used an eye bolt attached to the siding, but as my bines have grown larger, they need something stronger. This year, I plan to use fencing materials.
Because the AA% of homegrown hops are unknown, many people use them for flavor and aroma only, but if your production gets high enough, you can use your hops for bittering, as well, although it may require some trial and error to get the right amounts. I've made a few batches with all homegrown hops and just guessed at how much to use, using the default in BeerSmith for the hop I'm using.
Planting Rhizomes
Rhizomes are specialized roots that shoot out horizontally from the hop plant and new plants grow from the rhizomes. The rhizomes can be dug up and replanted to get new plants.
The first thing to do when preparing to plant your rhizomes is to find a good spot. Hops like to climb, so you need to pick a spot that will allow the plants to climb. They also need a lot of sunlight, so make sure you plant them where they get plenty of sunlight (I planted several plants on the north side of the house and the difference between those and the ones on the west side of the house are significant).
Dig a trench about 4 inches deep and long enough for the rhizome you're planting. Some people advocate adding organic matter to the soil that was removed, but I'm a proponent of returning the native soil to the planting bed and top dressing with organic matter. If you add organic matter to the soil before returning it to the planting bed, you risk creating a horizon between the two soils that may make it difficult for the roots to penetrate the lower soil. If you top dress, the organic matter will slowly work its way down, and the soil will change gradually. Having a trench with soil that is much looser than the soil around it can also lead to what is sometimes called a bathtub effect, where water drains to the trench and stays there, which can lead to waterlogged soil and may cause the roots to rot.
Plant the rhizome anywhere from 1-4 inches below the soil (that's what I originally wrote based on what I'd read, but I would now suggest planting them 1" deep so they don't have to work too hard to get to the surface). Planting too deeply may mean that the bines will not make it to the surface before the reserves in the rhizome run out (this is especially likely with very thin rhizomes that do not have much in the way of reserves).
Some people will plant two rhizomes of the same variety together to maximize chances that at least one will grow, but the only time I've had a rhizome fail to grow was when I got it too late, planted it in the heat of summer and was traveling so that I couldn't keep it watered often enough.
Plant rhizomes of the same variety 3-4 feet apart. Keep different varieties at least 5 feet apart.
If you can identify buds (they may be white, but some may have a red or purple tint to them), plant the rhizomes so the buds are up. If you can't identify any buds, if you can find some roots, plant with the roots down. If you can't find any roots or buds, just set the rhizome in; it will "figure out" which way is up and which is down (they're better at that than some people I've known).
Growing Hops in Pots (porch/deck growing)
Every guide I've read says that hops should not be grown in pots because the roots need too much room. However, I know that there are people who have successfully grown hops in pots.
Since I haven't tried to grow hops in pots, this is all second hand. But it is based on feedback from people who have grown hops in containers.
First, use the biggest container you can find. I've heard of success stories when people used 20 gallon containers, so when I say use a big container, that gives some perspective.
I haven't raised hops in containers, but based on other plant growing, I would not use top soil, but would instead use potting soil (which often does not have any actual soil).
Some of the fertilization tips are also off base with container gardening. Since you've got a soil-less growing medium, you need to use fertilizers aimed at houseplants, not the high nitrogen fertilizers that I use. Spent grains would be a particularly bad idea with containers.
If you're trying to contain your hops, you'll need to make sure the roots don't leave the pots.
Trimming
One plant will produce many bines. Although it is tempting to let all of the bines grow, you should trim all but two or three of the strongest bines from each plant. If you leave too many bines growing, they will cause overcrowding and not allow enough air and light in and the plants will suffer as a result.
Once the bines are several feet tall, trim the leaves from the first foot or so.
Watering
The first year, you will want to water fairly frequently. Keep the ground moist, but not wet. Until the plant develops a good root system, it needs more frequent water, but if it has too much water, it can rot. In subsequent years, it is much better to water infrequently and deeply, letting the soil dry between waterings. I watered every other day the first year and once a week in following years. Adjust the watering schedule for any natural precipitation (not really an issue for me, but not everybody lives in the desert).
Fertilizing
Note: The fertilizing recommendations below are for "traditional" hops. I managed to kill some neomexicanus hops following this approach. I'll add more information once I learn more about fertilizing neomexicanus hops.
I've been told that neo mexicanos hops should not be fertilized AT ALL for the first year or two, and that after that, they should be fertilized lightly.
Hops grow fast. At their peak, they can grow as much as a foot a day. It is common for them to grow a foot or two in a week. To feed this growth and to ensure they are able to develop healthy root systems, they need a fair amount of fertilizer, primarily nitrogen. If your soil is lacking in other nutrients, you may need to use a balanced fertilizer, but I generally use either urea (39/43-0-0) or ammonium sulfate (21-0-0). These are both fast acting fertilizers, so take care not to use too much at one time, or you can burn the plants and kill them. Fertilize once the bines have leaves. If you fertilize before that, the fertilizer will simply leach out before it can be used. I generally fertilize once a month in the spring and early summer. When it is getting close to the time the bines will start producing flowers, they should not be fertilized with a high nitrogen fertilizer because nitrogen produces growth and suppresses flowers. In the first year, you may want to fertilize monthly all year in order to promote growth, since you may not get much of a harvest the first year, anyway.
You can also fertilize with organic matter. Since organic fertilizers release nitrogen slowly, they can be used throughout the growing season. I add about a cup of spent grains to each plant every time I brew during the growing season.
Compost
Technically, compost is an amendment, not a fertilizer. Compost usually doesn't add an appreciable amount of N,P,K. Compost is used to add organic matter and beneficial microbes.
In my opinion, the greatest benefit from compost is from the microbes. The next biggest benefit from compost is from the organic matter it has (organic matter in compost is already partially broken down, so it is better than "raw" organic matter). I don't think bagged compost has much value. Home made compost is better and compost from a garden center or a municipal composting center is also good.
Compost can be applied at any time and as often as you want and can be applied as heavily as you want as long as you don't risk smothering the plants.
Pest Control
There are a number of pests that can affect hops. Insects such as aphids and cutworms can be a problem, as can mites. Mites are technically arthropods, not insects, but most insecticidal defenses are also effective against mites. Powdery mildew and downy mildew can also cause problems.
Some people use organic insecticides, thinking they are not harmful to people. While this is true of some organic insecticides, choices such as pyrethrum and nicotine, while organic, are highly toxic.
Sometimes insects and arthropods can be controlled without any insecticides. Simply spraying the plants with a strong stream of water can dislodge mites and aphids. If they are sent far enough from the plant, it is unlikely they will be able to return. Mites climb from the soil, where they overwinter. Eliminating leaves near the ground may make it difficult for them to gain a foothold on the plant. I had a mite infestation on one bine one year, and the following year, I cut the leaves near the ground and didn't have a recurrence. I don't think spraying is effective against cutworms, but I have no direct experience.
If spraying doesn't work, you may be able to control the pests using diatomaceous earth and/or insecticidal soap. In order for these to be effective, you need to know how they work. DE is made of fossilized skeletons of diatoms (a type of hard shelled algae). It works by making scratches on the exeoskeletons of the insects and arthropods. Water then leaks out of the insect and the insect dries up and dies. If it is humid enough when the DE is used, there will be time for the scratches to heal before death occurs. Insecticidal soap works by blocking the pores, so the pest essentially suffocates.
There are also a number of other pesticides, both chemical and organic, that can be used to control these pests, but I've had good results with these methods.
Insecticidal soap and DE are completely safe for people, but any other insecticides need to be used long enough in advance of harvest that they are no longer active, or you will need to ensure that you wash the cones well enough to remove nay traces of poisons.
Mildew can usually be controlled by trimming the bines so there is sufficient airflow, watering only in the morning and ensuring that you don't overwater.
Harvesting
Depending on your growing season, you may harvest only one time, or you may be able to harvest several times. Hop cones are ready to harvest when they are somewhat dry and papery to the feel. They should also have a fair amount of yellow lupulin inside. To harvest, simply pick the cones from the bines. I find that if I don't wear gloves, the bines scratch me and cause a rash.
I dried my hops the first year by placing them in a paper bag and letting them sit out to air dry. This worked fairly well with a small amount, but it helps that the humidity rarely makes it to double digits here. Even with my low humidity, for the second year, I bought a food dehydrator. I then weighed hops into roughly 1 oz batches, vacuum sealed them and put them in the freezer. I originally bought a really cheap dehydrator, but my brother discovered that if you dehydrate at higher temperatures, you can get poor results. So I bought a high end dehydrator when it was on woot for a fraction of the regular price. There are plenty of dehydrators in between those that cost $25 and those that cost hundreds of dollars. If you're dealing with smaller quantities, I think the HF version is sufficient.
After the final harvest, cut all of the bines and remove them. I compost, but I discard the bines because I don't actively compost in the fall/winter months and if the compost doesn't get hot enough, the bines may develop roots and grow.
Propagation
If you want more hop plants, either for yourself or others, there are several ways to get them.
The most common is to dig up rhizomes. Typically, you will start seeing rhizome production around the third year. During the first two years, the hops are mostly working on developing a strong root system (down, not out).
You can also take one of your "extra" bines and stick it into a pot filled with dirt and water it regularly. To ensure you get it to root, make sure a bud where leaves would be produced is under the dirt. You may have better results if you coat the part of the bine that you put under the ground with rooting hormones. Let it grow while still connected to the mother plant for most of the season. It should put down roots before a month or so is up, but you may want to leave it in the pot (connected to the mother) for a couple of months to ensure it is strong enough to survive on its own. When it is ready, simply cut it from the mother plant, carefully remove the plant and soil from the pot and transplant it.
A related approach is to simply cut a piece of bine and stick it in a pot of dirt (watering regularly). As with the prior method, ensure that the section of bine that is underground has at least one bud. Rooting hormone may also help.
Another related approach is to bury a section of the bine after harvesting. It should develop roots at every bud/leaf node (this is based on what I've read; I haven't been successful with this method).
I've had excellent results with rhizomes and with burying a section of bine during the growing season. I haven't had any luck burying part of the bine after harvesting and have had limited success burying a section of bine in a pot (although results were better when I used a rooting hormone).
Edited on 2018-01-22 to add comment about fertilizing neomexicanus hops.
