Burtonish IPA w/Lavender (my insanity never stops)
Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 11:38 pm
So I have been craving more of my bitter Burton Ale because I ran out. But I don't want to brew a ~1.070 brew this time of year, I want post-cycling beverage. And my friend gave me 4oz of home grown dried culinary lavender. So I've made lavender cookies and stuff, but I still have a crap load of that stuff (4oz of dried lavender is *a hella lot* to figure out what to do with). So EKG has a bit of a lavender like floral nature when used as a finishing/dry hop. So I figure why not kick that up a notch. It will hardly make a dent in my pile of lavender but it will help a little bit. I'll probably do a lavender saison, and also use some of it in one of my reconstructionist abbey beers over the summer.
I don't want an ton of caramel in this, but more of a pure candy sweetness to play against the hops and lavender. So I'm keeping my crystal very light colored. My yeast of choice for these kinds of beers will give me some nutty and stone fruit esters. I'm using a lot of crystal to try to keep a similar balance of malty/sweet vs. bitter that my bigger burton ale had. (it's still going to be good and bitter).
And yes believe it or not 1.04 beers were called IPAs back in the day. There were even 1.03 beers with 50+ IBUs. And those actually would have likely had invert sugar instead of crystal malt too (crystal was really rarely used in real British IPAs back in the day and sugar was often used so they would have been bitter as fook). But I want some sweetness here (and body) to play against all the tea and pith and herb and floral that will go on and I've got plenty of IBUs here to balance it. I'll probably carb this very lightly like a real British beer.
Also for those who have never brewed an old school burton type of beer, large additions of lower AAu hops are important (vs. say using Magnum or a high AAu English bittering hop in smaller amounts). The vegetal tannins that get extracted are part of the character that makes them what they are. Will taste a lot less complex if you replace the bittering additions with a lot less of something with a lot higher AAus.
So I will burtonize my water, and then mash this (it will be a thick BIAB mash, this is pushing the limits of my capacity, so I will sparge and squeeze it 2 times most likely to get up to real volume):
For 5 gallons:
@152 I think:
8# Maris Otter
1# 10L Crystal
2oz EKG @60
1oz EKG @45
1.5oz EKG @20
1.5oz EKG @10
0.2oz Dried Lavender @2
2oz EKG dry hop.
With the AAUs of my EKG, that's going to give me something like 95 IBUs at ~1.047 or so. Hurray! (this is not outrageous, if you look at old recipes some have 150-200 of bittering with OGs in the 1.05's and no crystal malt, so especially with my crystal addition... it's easily in the right ballpack).
I got a starter of Wyeast West Yorkshire (1469) that will spin tomorrow.
I might tweak this a tad, but not the malt, just the hops and/or lavender. If anything I will reduce the lavender to 1/4oz or even 0.2oz, not increase it. I do want to boil it for a couple of minutes because that adds some herbal bitterness that will add to the complexity, and then let fermentation scrub some of the floral aroma, that's on purpose. I don't want to use a tincture for this as its really easy for the floral to get overpowering and make "bath soap" beer. (I've used lavender before both in good and bad ways, this should be a good way).
BTW, in case someone doesn't know, full volume for me for the boil in this case will be around 3.75 gallons, I will top up during the boil a couple of times with boiling water from a tea kettle, and I will split between 2 LBCs and then top up each to the 2.5 gallon mark with camden treated water. Yes, you can do that even with AG. Folks who say you can't are weenies who have never tried it. I do it all the time for 5 gallon batches because I can't boil 5 gallons in a happy manner. You just need to tweak your bittering hop additions a tad perhaps, if you are trying to "clone" something. One of the "stupid brewing tricks" I learned a long time ago.
I don't want an ton of caramel in this, but more of a pure candy sweetness to play against the hops and lavender. So I'm keeping my crystal very light colored. My yeast of choice for these kinds of beers will give me some nutty and stone fruit esters. I'm using a lot of crystal to try to keep a similar balance of malty/sweet vs. bitter that my bigger burton ale had. (it's still going to be good and bitter).
And yes believe it or not 1.04 beers were called IPAs back in the day. There were even 1.03 beers with 50+ IBUs. And those actually would have likely had invert sugar instead of crystal malt too (crystal was really rarely used in real British IPAs back in the day and sugar was often used so they would have been bitter as fook). But I want some sweetness here (and body) to play against all the tea and pith and herb and floral that will go on and I've got plenty of IBUs here to balance it. I'll probably carb this very lightly like a real British beer.
Also for those who have never brewed an old school burton type of beer, large additions of lower AAu hops are important (vs. say using Magnum or a high AAu English bittering hop in smaller amounts). The vegetal tannins that get extracted are part of the character that makes them what they are. Will taste a lot less complex if you replace the bittering additions with a lot less of something with a lot higher AAus.
So I will burtonize my water, and then mash this (it will be a thick BIAB mash, this is pushing the limits of my capacity, so I will sparge and squeeze it 2 times most likely to get up to real volume):
For 5 gallons:
@152 I think:
8# Maris Otter
1# 10L Crystal
2oz EKG @60
1oz EKG @45
1.5oz EKG @20
1.5oz EKG @10
0.2oz Dried Lavender @2
2oz EKG dry hop.
With the AAUs of my EKG, that's going to give me something like 95 IBUs at ~1.047 or so. Hurray! (this is not outrageous, if you look at old recipes some have 150-200 of bittering with OGs in the 1.05's and no crystal malt, so especially with my crystal addition... it's easily in the right ballpack).
I got a starter of Wyeast West Yorkshire (1469) that will spin tomorrow.
I might tweak this a tad, but not the malt, just the hops and/or lavender. If anything I will reduce the lavender to 1/4oz or even 0.2oz, not increase it. I do want to boil it for a couple of minutes because that adds some herbal bitterness that will add to the complexity, and then let fermentation scrub some of the floral aroma, that's on purpose. I don't want to use a tincture for this as its really easy for the floral to get overpowering and make "bath soap" beer. (I've used lavender before both in good and bad ways, this should be a good way).
BTW, in case someone doesn't know, full volume for me for the boil in this case will be around 3.75 gallons, I will top up during the boil a couple of times with boiling water from a tea kettle, and I will split between 2 LBCs and then top up each to the 2.5 gallon mark with camden treated water. Yes, you can do that even with AG. Folks who say you can't are weenies who have never tried it. I do it all the time for 5 gallon batches because I can't boil 5 gallons in a happy manner. You just need to tweak your bittering hop additions a tad perhaps, if you are trying to "clone" something. One of the "stupid brewing tricks" I learned a long time ago.