BeerBorg

A short but helpful article on the best way to whirlpool/steep hops.

https://beerandbrewing.com/69OprWNd3auw ... n-homebrew

Awesome...thanks. Just sat down with a sammy for lunch. Now I have some reading material!!

Good find BL.... I saved it for future resources.............

I've settled my process on pretty much starting at what he calls the high end, but put lid on (which he admits is not a bad thing hurray!) and let it cool all the way down to the low end with the lid still on. If I want to cool faster (shorter hop stand) I put the pot in a sink full of ice. That keeps the blown off oils that would have been lost at the high end in the pot and then they condense back into the wort from the lid as it cools (it's like perfume distillation except I'm not letting them escape into a still but keeping them captured in the original vessel.

I've had nothing but good things happen when I do this.

I've found that 20-30 minutes is needed at flame out and shorter times don't do a whole lot. Haven't tried longer than 30 minutes but I also dry hop too so it's hard for me to know for sure though I'm pleased with what I've been doing.

Excellent article, thanks. I add mine at flame out, cover, wait a while, then chill. Based on this I might start cooling right away, dropping right through the described ranges.

Have not read said article yet, but I whirlpool for 10-15 minutes w/lid on, then start to cool w/counterflow chiller which drops temp from 180's to the 125-130 range within a couple minutes.

I read a long time ago that aroma hop additions added to the boil, knockout or flameout aroma additions and dry hop aroma additions each added something to a beer that the other two did not. Admittedly those claims are hard to prove or to disprove one way or the other. But the idea of there being differences between the 3 aroma options seemed to be at least logical.

Aroma hop additions added to the boil were the defacto method when I began brewing as were dry hopping. Knockout aroma hopping was somewhat of an advanced subject lacking details explaining why or how it differed from the other two. Thank you for sharing an article that provides the optimal temperature ranges needed to extract the most myrcene!

"Myrcene has an herbal note that can be described as green, balsamic, or hoppy and can also have piney/citrusy hints as is the case with many American varieties. Cascade, for instance, has a high myrcene content of around 50 percent."

A friend had gifted me 6 ounces of dried Cascade hop flowers last night and I can't wait to use them.

I've been doing quite a few late additions only (with dry hopping) and have noticed quite a bit more bitterness than I expected. Granted, you use lots more hops but while I do like a small bittering charge, I do think the aroma and flavor are better with late additions. So far they've mostly been medium to high alpha hops as I've read that if you do late additions with low alpha and put loads of them in late, you may still get a grassy flavor (plus loss of beer due to hop sludge).

If I remember correctly, I've done a <170 addition a couple of times. I liked it. One of the brews was an American lager (sorta) which technically had zero hops added to the boil. I did a FWH and a <170 addition. Turned out really good.