Im getting past the point of measuring and funneling table sugar into each bottle of various sizes. In 3 weeks I will consider " batch priming" to save time and sanity.
I believe there is a choice of corn sugar, table sugar, and dme to choose from.
Is one sugar preferable over the other to use?
Also, what is the best way to add this sugar solution to the primary fermenter's beer before bottling it without adding oxygen and getting it mixed evenly into the beer ?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey Rick. Batch priming is one of those things that once you do, you'll likely never look back.
There is no 'preferred' primer - it's up to you. Most people (I say most instead of all because there may be a few...) cannot tell the difference between a bottle primed with regular sugar, corn sugar, dme, honey, etc. I do recall a few people YEARS ago swearing that dme gave them tighter, finer bubbles but that was the exception rather than the rule.
There are lots of online priming calculators to choose from. Just search "batch priming calculator" and find the one you like best or find is easiest to use. Truth be told, there's little difference in them but some may prefer one layout over another.
Now here's the key - batch priming in the PRIMARY is NOT recommended. I've not heard of anybody doing this without getting bottles full of trub. To do it "right" you really need a second vessel. So a second LBK, LBC, a Slimline you can pick up at Target/Walmart/etc. The ideal method is to boil just enough water to dissolve your sugar solution in. Mix it in and let it cool (if you like, I never did since the amount of hot sugar solution is minimal compared to the beer. Rack your beer (after cold crashing for best results) into the bottling bucket/secondary vessel. Pour in the sugar solution and mix slowly for just a few seconds. (If you cool the solution first, pour that in first then rack the beer on top of it. As it fills it will mix on its own).
Key: Use a bottling wand and/or tubing to reduce splashing and oxidation.
Hopefully that makes sense and doesn't sound too complicated - it really isn't.
Another easy option is "Dominos Dots" sugar cubes that come 198 to a pack, each cube is 2.5g of sugar. Found in the sugar isle in grocery stores. If not, you can get them online (Amazon, etc.). Just be sure they are the 198/pack ones.
1 of them per 12-16oz gives good carb levels for most beers.
No measuring, no fuss, and they are cheap compared to any other priming sugar things homebrew places sell.
I batch prime sometimes, I just use an open fermenter as my priming bucket like Kealia mentions, since my fermenters have spigots. Whether I do depends on if I am being picky about exact carb levels for a style.
But if I'm not that worried about it I used the dots. With the dots I prime all my bottles for a 3 gallon batch in 30 seconds flat. It takes longer for me to batch prime because of extra sanitation and clean up.
Good advice from Kealia. A lot of this is Brewer's Choice, and being comfortable and happy with what you're doing is what's important. In other words, there's no One Right Way to do this (but there are some Wrong Ways, as he pointed out in his comment about racking to another vessel).
A few years ago, after some conversations about how much priming sugar affects ABV, head retention, etc., I did some quick and casual calculations and determined that the percentage per bottle of actual sugar added is a ridiculously small amount. So my opinion is, if someone claims they can tell the difference between beer primed with corn sugar and beer primed with sucrose or anything else, they're either complete BS artists, or they're trying to sell you something.
Thanx all for your advice. For now, I took Mash's advice and got the Domino dots cubed sugar (198 pk) since I only use a conical primary for fermenting and it has a spigot for bottling. This seems to be the best option for me for now. (Found them at Wallyworld)
I use different size bottles when I fill them. I mark them with a "liquid white out pen" which holds up pretty well after sanitizing them. This really saves time when adding the sugar to the bottles.
Goodbye little spoons and funnel.
If later you get a 2nd little demon, then you can use it for batch priming if it's not full of fermenting beer. If it is, then get a 3rd little demon. You know you want too... LOL.
If you do decide to go the route of batch priming in the future (it's great when using different sized bottles) I think Walmart also sells the Slimlines that a number of folks used. When I was using Mr Beer's kegs I just bought an extra to use for bottling. But like mashani said, then I needed a second fermentor, so I had to buy another one, and then another one......
For reference, this is what a Slimline looks like:
I've been batch priming from the start. I do it for two reasons. One, it's far less time consuming then adding sugar to each individual bottle. and two, every beer in the batch comes out equally carbonated. I started out using regular table sugar, but for the majority of by batches I use corn sugar. People might think I'm crazy but I can tell the difference. The carbonation is just different. All you can do is experiment and see for yourself.
Scoper50 wrote:...I use corn sugar. People might think I'm crazy but I can tell the difference. The carbonation is just different.
I don't think you're crazy. Different people are 'super-tasters' for certain things. I find that I have a very low threshold for diacetyl whereas my buddies don't pick up on it at all. Some guys here experience the same hop in very different ways (Citra being cat-pee to some as an example).
I think you are maybe in the minority of people who can taste a difference between that small amount of sugar, but it no way diminishes your experience. And you are right, experimenting is the best/only way to tell for each person.
For general recommendations (like the OP asked for) I think it's safe to say that *most* people can't tell the difference and I try to choose my words carefully as to not speak in absolutes.
Cheers.
mashani wrote:Another easy option is "Dominos Dots" sugar cubes that come 198 to a pack, each cube is 2.5g of sugar.
Sadly ... each cube does not weigh 2.5 g.
Some weigh as little as 1.8g.
I used them exclusively at one time -- two per liter -- until I got hold of a digital scale.
Since then ... batch prime all the time.
Homebrew will get you through times of no money
Better than money will get you through times of no homebrew
- apologies to the Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers
Are you talking about dots that all look intact, or ones where the corners got knocked off by the box getting bashed up a bit?
FWIW, I don't notice any significant enough difference in carb between my bottles using the dots that it bugs me. Certainly not any more then if I was trying to measure sugar into bottles (which sucks). No matter what dots are better then that.
I do batch prime when I feel "picky" about a beer. Normally I'm not that picky though if it's one of my post bike ride low ABV beers. I actually make a lot of beers with "English" like carb levels, and just toss 1 dot into a 740ML bottle. Because I am drinking a good amount of those things to get more calories (yes I intentionally make beer to get more calories) and don't want the bloat that comes with the American level of fizz.
mashani wrote:Are you talking about dots that all look intact, or ones where the corners got knocked off by the box getting bashed up a bit?
Sharp edges and fully intact.
Maybe the result of a bad production run.
Looked into weighing the cubes a while back after a noticing a few batches with inconsistent carb. IIRC ... two 'normal' Dots / L ==> ~2.4 vols. / CO2.
Two 'light' Dots / L ==> ~1.8.
I do miss the convenience of dropping two Dots v. boiling'n cooling.
Homebrew will get you through times of no money
Better than money will get you through times of no homebrew
- apologies to the Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers
Another quick question....
When priming the bottles with sugar cubes....The temperature of the fermented Ale will be about 63 degrees. Is this temp ok to bottle at or should it be a little higher ?
Don't know if this will have any effect on carbonation or excess pressure in the bottles.
(haven't had any bombs yet and wanna keep it that way)
Just making sure.
You want to have it at a temperature your yeast are happy in. A 63 degree temperature is OK with most ale yeasts and it will carb ok even if maintained at that temperature as long as you are waiting 3-4 weeks. But it will carb and condition faster if you can put them in a room that is closer to 68 degrees.
