Electric Brewing

[Beer-lord]

For 2 years I've looked at all the options of going electric and I think I might do so in the next 6 months or so. I want to keep doing BIAB because I like simple, it's a bit quicker and, more importantly, it works for me. I want something simple to operate, maintain and store. I've pretty much decided on High Gravity Brewing but as with anything I spend a good deal of money on, I look and OCD for a bit. But, I would like to hear from those who have E-systems (not just E-BIAB) with the pros and cons of them so that I can be sure I've thought of everything.

And I guess I'll have to then think about some of my stuff for space purposes. I'm not sure I see any reason to keep stuff I won't use.

[ScrewyBrewer]

I brew on a 220v High Gravity eBIAB system that came with the EBC-SV controller in mid-2014. Last month after brewing a dozen or so 10-gallon batches a year I replaced the original 4500w heating element with a new upgraded 5500w element. I have nothing but good things to say about High Gravity systems and the support provided by owner Dave Knott.

If you're like me making the move from a gas to an electric powered brewing system can be a little overwhelming at first. But looking back at the safety and convenience of electric brewing over gas makes the switch one the smartest decisions I could make.

[Beer-lord]

I've heard nothing but good about Dave and Desiree and their customer service. They have an updated controller as of 2017 I think and it looks pretty simple to me and I think it comes with the Blichman 4500 which I read can boil up to 15 gallons. Was the 4500 not enough?

[ScrewyBrewer]

I've heard nothing but good about Dave and Desiree and their customer service. They have an updated controller as of 2017 I think and it looks pretty simple to me and I think it comes with the Blichman 4500 which I read can boil up to 15 gallons. Was the 4500 not enough?

The 4500 was plenty for me and I haven't brewed using the 5500 yet. The only reason I replaced the 4500 was its ceramic insulator began to split. The newer 5500 replacement uses a stainless steel part that eliminates insulator contact with the wort. Which in theory should extend its life even more. The 62-quart kettle that came with my setup maxes out at 23 pounds of grain and 12 gallons of water for a 6% ABV beer mashed at 2 qts/lb. I was happy with the 4500w performance and the new 5500w will be even better.

[Dawg LB Steve]

I am going to convert boil kettles to accept 5500 watt element for boil only, as I have a T-500 boiler I can use with one of my Inkbird controllers for strike and sparge water. Would I need to control the element for boil or just let it run for the 60 minute boil?

[ScrewyBrewer]

I am going to convert boil kettles to accept 5500 watt element for boil only, as I have a T-500 boiler I can use with one of my Inkbird controllers for strike and sparge water. Would I need to control the element for boil or just let it run for the 60 minute boil?

The EBC-SV that I use controls the power that drives the heating element. Turn it to up a bit to get a gentle boil or turn it up more to get a vigorous boil. I kept the dial turned to 40% of the way with the 4500w element to get a rolling boil. Any higher than that would provide an extremely vigorous boil which I never needed.

[Beer-lord]

This is the newer (single vessel) controller. It's shipped with advanced tweaking turned off (such as alarms and timers) and just the boil and mash info turned on to keep it simple for many users. Though, it doesn't look complicated to me.
I'd need to get a 240 put in as I don't have one near my brewing area and I don't do trust myself to doing a neat nor safe job of that!

[Inkleg]

How far ya need to go? These come in all lengths and plug configurations. I use two 25 ft ones with my electrical BIAB set up.

[Beer-lord]

Actually, I dint have a 240 at all![emoji33]
My dryer is gas but I thought I had one put in when we remodeled 20 years ago.
So I’d need to get something to do the job.

[ScrewyBrewer]

Actually, I dint have a 240 at all![emoji33]
My dryer is gas but I thought I had one put in when we remodeled 20 years ago.
So I’d need to get something to do the job.

Just an FYI. I hired a licensed electrician to do the installation. For safety, I opted to run a 4-wire 30 amp line using a GFCI breaker to power my brewing system. And when not in use it also powers an inexpensive 220v electric heater in winter.

[Beer-lord]

I hope to be able to find someone reasonable but I don't even know what would be considered reasonable. Much will depend on where it's situated as I plan to brew both in and outdoors (hopefully the wife will let me).
Vince, mind me asking what it cost you? I know that won't change my cost, but I am curious.

[ScrewyBrewer]

I had the circuit added by the builder in June 2014 and it cost $350 if I remember correctly. It's a shame since our laundry room has the exact same electric dryer circuit but isn't accessible from the garage.

[bpgreen]

Two thoughts.

First:
220, 221, whatever it takes.

Second:
I went with the Mash and Boil, which uses a standard outlet (requires GFCI). I'm sure the bigger units would boil faster, but this does the job for me.

[Beer-lord]

How much condensation/steam is produced with your E-brewing? I'm not interested in making this complicated or more expensive by getting a vent. I probably would still be doing most of my brewing outside under the patio but for those times I want to brew inside, I don't want to mess up a ceiling.

[ScrewyBrewer]

The boil off for my 10-gallon batches is about 1.5 gallons. The good news is with electric you only need to exhaust vapors. As opposed to natural gas where you need 10 times the ventilation to remove carbon monoxide too. I think the exhaust cfm for propane falls somewhere in between closer to electric powered.