Brewing up version 2 of my MOFF Diver. The first was a IIPA I made in a one gallon batch. Delicious, but too much hops in a IIPA for a one gallon batch. This time I want to do it less radical so it is more drinkable, as it will be my first IPA I keg. I am also using this as an opportunity to dial in my BIAB approach on a tested recipe.
MOFF Diver II (Maris Otter Falconer's Flight SMaSH)
13 Pounds Maris Otter
1 oz FF @ 60
.5 oz FF @ 30
.5 oz FF @ 15
.5 oz FF @ 5
.5 oz FF @ 0
S05 yeast.
I am working on my BIAB since my last recipe I finished with like 4 gallons in the fermentor. Trying to decide between 8.5 or 9 gallons of water for the mash. Using .15 as the grain absorbtion rate that's about 2 gallons. So 8.5 mash, lose 2 gallons, puts me about 6.5 for the boil. If my boil off is 1 gallon, that's 5.5 in the fermentor. Thinking I will do 9 because I think my boil off rate is slightly higher than 1 gallon for a 1 hour boil.
MOFF Diver II
Moderators: BlackDuck, Beer-lord, LouieMacGoo, philm00x, gwcr
MOFF Diver II
Jimbo Homebrew Co.
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Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
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Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
Re: MOFF Diver II
Just my 2 cents for my taste but I'd move the 30 down to 0 and really increase the hops at 15, 5 and 0 if you have them. That'll be more like an IPA.
Also, I BIAB in a 15 gallon pot and for most of my 6 gallon batches using 13-15 lbs of grain, I rarely go over 9 gallons in my pot. I do squeeze a bit though. I usually end up with close to 8 gallons and finish with 6.5 and 6 in the fermenter.
Is this the first brew in your new digs?
Also, I BIAB in a 15 gallon pot and for most of my 6 gallon batches using 13-15 lbs of grain, I rarely go over 9 gallons in my pot. I do squeeze a bit though. I usually end up with close to 8 gallons and finish with 6.5 and 6 in the fermenter.
Is this the first brew in your new digs?
PABs Brewing
Re: MOFF Diver II
So, I have exactly 3 ounces of hops coming from Northern Brewer (LHBS does not carry them). I am willing to move them around any way to make it better. Open to suggestions. I could take that 30 minute half ounce an add them at 15 and 5 (1/4 each)? Still working out the 0 minute add. I don't have a great strainer system for the brew kettle, which led to a blockage last time, so I am trying out muslin hop sacks for the first time this brew.
This is my second batch here in the new digs. The first one was a spur of the minute I am at the brew store and they have a kit and I have money let me brew today, so I didn't plan everything as well as I wanted and was the first using my propane burner. I used that as a get back into brewing experience, so now I am ready to get back to note taking and implementing everything and perfecting my technique.
This is my second batch here in the new digs. The first one was a spur of the minute I am at the brew store and they have a kit and I have money let me brew today, so I didn't plan everything as well as I wanted and was the first using my propane burner. I used that as a get back into brewing experience, so now I am ready to get back to note taking and implementing everything and perfecting my technique.
Jimbo Homebrew Co.
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Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
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Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
Re: MOFF Diver II
Others may chime in with their thoughts but if that's all you have, I have 2 suggestions. The first would be what I already mentioned to take the 30 and move it to 0. The second would be to use only 1/2 and instead of at 60, do a FWH........add it in the pot before you restart the heat and as soon as you take the bag out. Then take the other 1/2 oz and split it between 5 and 0 or use the other half as a dry hop. It might do better at 0 than dry hop but most IPA's have about 3 oz dry hop and 4-5 oz in the boil.
This way, you are really making a more robust pale ale but those FF hops are very nice and should make a tasty brew with MO malt.
This way, you are really making a more robust pale ale but those FF hops are very nice and should make a tasty brew with MO malt.
PABs Brewing
Re: MOFF Diver II
See and if I only had 3oz I'd move all of it to T-30 and < with a big chunk of it being a T-0 with a 20 or 30 minute hopstand/whirlpool (leaving in all the hops until that's done). The extra utilization during the whirlpool/hopstand gives plenty of bitter to balance things, and you end up with more flavor/aroma contribution because all the hops are in those zones.
Re: MOFF Diver II
Interesting. One of the problems is that I made a recipe with Brewers friend, but didn't save it. Had three ounces, and it came out with decent IBU, but now with qbrew I only get like 50 some. I would not be disappointed if this was more of a pale ale since the friend I am brewing with isn't much of a hop head. I also would not be opposed to seeing if the lhbs has magnum or something, although that does defeat the SMaSH principle.
Even a lower IBU beer with some good nose would be a good thing, so maybe all after 30 would work...
Even a lower IBU beer with some good nose would be a good thing, so maybe all after 30 would work...
Jimbo Homebrew Co.
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Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
----------------------------------------
Drinking:
Keg1:
Keg2:
Keg3:
Bottled:
Nothing!
Fermenting:
Fermenter 1 (5 Gal Bucket): Empty
Fermenter 2 (1 gal.): Empty
On Deck:
Something?!
Re: MOFF Diver II
FYI: You will get some IBU contribution from a whirlpool/hop stand. Depending on temps you start at and how long you do the stand/hold the temp, it can add a good bit of extra utilization. Even staring at lower temps it can be like 5 extra minutes. So if you do that sort of thing, try adding 5 minutes or more to all of your hop additions from a "what might my IBUs be" perspective.
Some folks do the whirlpool/hop stand throwing hops in after they cool the wort some to avoid blowing off the aroma. The way I do it, is I do hop my hop stands starting with the T-0 addition at flameout and throw a lid on my pot. Then cool down slowly over the next 20-30 minutes. As it cools, the hop oils that got blown off due to the high temps re-condense on the lid and drop back into the wort (like perfume distillation except it stays captured in the pot instead of going through the cooling of a still and out the other end). This gives me a good 10 minutes of extra IBU contribution, with all of the flavor/aroma of the late hops I add staying intact. I really rarely ever dry hop anymore because this works so well.
Also remember IBU <> flavor. IBU is just the bitterness. The flavor comes from other oils in the hops. So don't think such a beer will taste like a pale ale, it can still have the flavor/aroma characteristics of an American IPA quite easily. The biggest difference is if you want to have a "bite" or not. All late beers like this, regardless of IBUs tend to have a softer bitterness instead of the initial "bite". That doesn't mean they aren't bitter or don't finish bitter. I've been brewing ~80 to ~100 IBU beers with all late hops. It's more the up front bit that is different. Some folks like the initial bite. I don't dislike it, but it's not what's important to me. The aroma/flavor and finish is what's important to me. So that's why I've evolved to this style of brewing.
Not saying its the best way or for everyone just what I have found that I like. Gymrat does similar stuff. And my impression is he likes his results a lot too.
Some folks do the whirlpool/hop stand throwing hops in after they cool the wort some to avoid blowing off the aroma. The way I do it, is I do hop my hop stands starting with the T-0 addition at flameout and throw a lid on my pot. Then cool down slowly over the next 20-30 minutes. As it cools, the hop oils that got blown off due to the high temps re-condense on the lid and drop back into the wort (like perfume distillation except it stays captured in the pot instead of going through the cooling of a still and out the other end). This gives me a good 10 minutes of extra IBU contribution, with all of the flavor/aroma of the late hops I add staying intact. I really rarely ever dry hop anymore because this works so well.
Also remember IBU <> flavor. IBU is just the bitterness. The flavor comes from other oils in the hops. So don't think such a beer will taste like a pale ale, it can still have the flavor/aroma characteristics of an American IPA quite easily. The biggest difference is if you want to have a "bite" or not. All late beers like this, regardless of IBUs tend to have a softer bitterness instead of the initial "bite". That doesn't mean they aren't bitter or don't finish bitter. I've been brewing ~80 to ~100 IBU beers with all late hops. It's more the up front bit that is different. Some folks like the initial bite. I don't dislike it, but it's not what's important to me. The aroma/flavor and finish is what's important to me. So that's why I've evolved to this style of brewing.
Not saying its the best way or for everyone just what I have found that I like. Gymrat does similar stuff. And my impression is he likes his results a lot too.
Re: MOFF Diver II
Not to mess up the hop talk, which the other guys have you covered on, I wanted to touch on your BIAB process. Have you used Screwy's ezBiabcalculator? It's worked decently well for me, letting me know when I needed to use my second pot for the mash out.