Pliny the Elder

[Beer-lord]

Starter was very active. I stir every 15 minutes and for the mashout, I stir constantly for those 10-15 minutes as it rises. Everything I've always done.

Yeah, I need a beer too. Don't stress over this, my beer seems not too bad so I can live with it. It's just my obsession for getting things right.

[BlackDuck]

Dude...I can't figure this out either, but I'll poke a hole in the sky here.
Have you been using dry yeast with a starter a lot lately? I primarily use Fermentis dry yeasts. Their directions do not mention to use a starter. They recommed either rehydrating or direct pitching. I direct pitch according to their directions, which is to make sure the wort temp is above 68, wait 30 minutes, then aerate. My temps are usually between 69 and 71. I wait 30 minutes then aerate with a hand mixer with the whisk attachment on it.

I just wonder if something might be going on with the dry yeast and starter combination. Especially when their directions don't include a starter. Maybe next time pitch according to their directions and see what happens.

[Beer-lord]

Nope, the 05 I made a starter with was washed yeast from July. In my other beers with 04 and 05 I've used packets sprinkled on top and get a relatively quick fermentation.

Here's something I just thought of......I'm just wondering if the frozen bottles I'm using to chill my fermenters with in the 2 Cool Brewing Bags I use are chilling the bottom where the yeast settles and putting some to sleep. Starting tomorrow, I'm going to raise them off the bottom on some cups and after 4-5 days, shake the fermenter a bit to see if I can get a better attenuation. My thinking is since my frozen jugs (not those!!!!) are much wider at the bottom and I set 2 on each side of the fermenter, that the coldest, frozen portion of the jugs are making more contact with the settled yeast and some may be going dormant.
Does that make sense?

[Inkleg]

Don't stress over this

Oh it's not to hard, I mean I only have 6 beers on tap to chose from. So I have to decide what beer is fermenting and coming on line and then see which keg has the most beer poured out of it so I can judge having an empty slot for the new keg.

Wait, you mean stressing over your FG problem, gotch ya. It's raining, I'm home, bored and this gives me something to do.

I poured Belas IPA by the way. It has about 12 beers left and my SSR will be coming up soon.

[BlackDuck]

You never know Paul...your tought process makes sense. Might as well give it a try.

[Inkleg]

That may well be it. Let us know how it goes.

See who said drinking leads to bad things.

[Kealia]

Hmm, it will be interesting to see. I would guess that wouldn't be an issue because the yeast on the bottom have already done their job and flocculated out so they'd be done already. I haven't read any other details, but is it safe to say that since you switched pots you calibrated your thermometer? And what about aeration techniques?

Sorry - just trying to help out, too!

[Beer-lord]

I hocked my car and bought a Thermapen a few months back and it's accurate to 1/2 a degree. My pot thermometer is pretty good up to 180 and then it's off a bit but since I use the thermapen, I don't even look at it. The Thermapen has been checked and rechecked and it's spot on.

To aerate, I've done a few things (though I do have a aeration kit on the way this week). I transfer from pot to fermenter thru a strainer, then into a second fermenter thru a strainer than I shake the frack out the fermenter. I've actually thought of this and that's why I bought the aeration kit though I've still not done anything different other than the new pot.

Damn it all to hell!

[Beer-lord]

Just teasing a bit:
http://youtu.be/BD8yWtgdoeA

[BlackDuck]

Man...now I'm going to have to figure out a Pliny the Younger clone. Thanks Paul!!!

[philm00x]

Jesus... almost 11 dollars for a pint of Younger at the pub. Eventually I'll have to try Elder just because of the hype.

[Beer-lord]

If'n you wantin' to go for it, look no further... http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/pl ... ne-20.html
All you need is 4 dry hops and it's done.

[BlackDuck]

Yikes....but where do I get the 40 total ML's of hop extract?

EDIT...and what kind of hop extract do you suppose is used? Maybe it's in the article, I just haven't read it yet.

[Beer-lord]

I don't know but his earlier clone that he revised for the recipe I posted says:

Try to use hop extract if you can. The substitute would be around 4.1oz Warrior at 17% AA to replace the 90 minute addition. 4oz is a lot of hops to 'cook' for 90 minutes, hence the reason I feel the hop extract is worth it. Don't bother calculating the IBUs. Depending on the formula you use, it'll calc between 200 and 340IBU; obviously, it's not that bitter. The other tip for this beer is, do whatever you must to dry it out; it really needs to finish under 1.010. Only you know your brewing system, so adjust the mash temp as needed to ensure it dries out.

I've never used hop extract though I am intrigued. But, I don't even know if what choices one even has for hop extract. NB sells the HopShot. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brew ... pshot.html

[BlackDuck]

I found this: http://www.hoptech.com/collections/hop-oils-extracts Gives a few options and it looks to be a cheaper than NB.