Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
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Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
I'm using a LBC for this with just recipe kits from BrewDemon . I've been reading the forums over on these topics and have found so many different answers. I'm curious as to what times people think are best for this system. I 'm new to this so I feel like I am being a little impatient and rushing things a bit. So far my beers have turned out very well but I'm sure they can be even better.
- RickBeer
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Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
Doesn't really matter which system you use, here is the basic recommendation for the HMEs.
- Ferment for 3 weeks at 65 degree wort temp (not air temp).
- Carbonate and condition for 4 weeks, or more, at 70 degrees or higher.
- Refrigerate for at least 3 days only what you're ready to drink, leaving the rest to continue to condition.
These are guidelines. Yes, some beer is better young, like a very hoppy beer, so 3 weeks may be fine. Overall, if new brewers follow 3-4 and watch their temps they will get much better results. If you test a bottle at week 3, then week 4, then week 5 you will accomplish two things. First, you will validate what dozens/hundreds have proven before you (and Mr. Beer basically adopted in their instructions). Second, you will waste beer that is too green. If you need to learn by doing (and not trusting that others have done), then you should do that so you can then post in about 8 weeks "hey, you guys were right, it does get better with age).
- Ferment for 3 weeks at 65 degree wort temp (not air temp).
- Carbonate and condition for 4 weeks, or more, at 70 degrees or higher.
- Refrigerate for at least 3 days only what you're ready to drink, leaving the rest to continue to condition.
These are guidelines. Yes, some beer is better young, like a very hoppy beer, so 3 weeks may be fine. Overall, if new brewers follow 3-4 and watch their temps they will get much better results. If you test a bottle at week 3, then week 4, then week 5 you will accomplish two things. First, you will validate what dozens/hundreds have proven before you (and Mr. Beer basically adopted in their instructions). Second, you will waste beer that is too green. If you need to learn by doing (and not trusting that others have done), then you should do that so you can then post in about 8 weeks "hey, you guys were right, it does get better with age).
I have over 9,000 posts on "another forum", which means absolutely nothing. Mr. Beer January 2014 Brewer of the Month with all the pomp and circumstance that comes with it...
Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology
Sites to find beer making supplies: Adventures in Homebrewing - Mr. Beer - MoreBeer
Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology
Sites to find beer making supplies: Adventures in Homebrewing - Mr. Beer - MoreBeer
My Beer - click to reveal
- Whamolagan
- Braumeister
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- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:13 pm
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
Do you have a hydrometer? Even temps are the key to a good beer, it keeps the yeast doing what you want it to do. When I bottled, I would carb the beer at the same temp I fermented at. The only true way to know if your beer is done is to take hydrometer readings. Now this is not really practical when you are doing 2 gallon batches due to the fact that you need about 12 oz 3 times to figure if the beer is ready to bottle. Kind of a waste of beer IMO. There are a few factors that go into this, amount of oxygen in solution at time of pitching the yeast, even temps during fermentation. Generally the 2-2-2 worked for me, but 3 weeks in the fermentor is not going to hurt it, just clear it up. If you feel that you are being impatient then it is time for you to buy another LBC and start brewing more to keep your hands busy and have the pipeline full. This is a fun hobby and there is no definitive way to do it. Over time you will find your way and start to tweak different things to your liking. Welcome to the obsession and don't stop asking questions, there is a wealth of info here and we like to help
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
Thanks guys ,very much appreciated .
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
Whamolagan wrote:...you need about 12 oz 3 times to figure if the beer is ready to bottle. Kind of a waste of beer IMO. ...
Whoa, Whamo how big is your hydrometer??? I measured the liquid in mine once and it takes between 3 and 4 ounces to fill the tube and get a reading. And for multiple checks you have two options:
1) Cover the hydrometer tube loosely with foil and keep checking the same sample, OR
2) Pour the hydro sample into a bottle after you've taken the reading and stuff a paper towel in the neck like a molotov cocktail until you are ready to re-pour it into the tube to read again
Either way should save on waste. I used this method for years before I stopped taking readings until bottling day. I even checked the samples against "fresh samples" every now and then to ensure that I got the same readings and they were ALWAYS spot on. No waste!
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
And another option is to pour the sample back into the fermenter. I do it all the time, with no ill effects. Even won some medals, so it doesn't really hurt. People may say that I'm making a huge mistake by doing it, but I will respectfully disagree.
Just make sure your test tube and hydrometer are well cleaned and sanitized. This is of utmost importance. I always pour a small taste off, then slowy pour the rest back in. I will also say that I usually only take two readings. Once on brew day before the yeast is pitched, and once after about two to two and half weeks, which for about 99% of my recipes is dry hop day. If I'm close to the projected FG (within a point or two), then it's done. The dry hops go in and it's kegged after the dry hop period is over.
Just make sure your test tube and hydrometer are well cleaned and sanitized. This is of utmost importance. I always pour a small taste off, then slowy pour the rest back in. I will also say that I usually only take two readings. Once on brew day before the yeast is pitched, and once after about two to two and half weeks, which for about 99% of my recipes is dry hop day. If I'm close to the projected FG (within a point or two), then it's done. The dry hops go in and it's kegged after the dry hop period is over.
ANTLER BREWING
Drinking
#93 - Gerst Amber Ale
Conditioning and Carbing
Fermenting
On Deck
Drinking
#93 - Gerst Amber Ale
Conditioning and Carbing
Fermenting
On Deck
- RickBeer
- Brew Guru
- Posts: 3099
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 1:21 pm
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan (Go Blue!)
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
Yeah, my tube is also smaller...
I have over 9,000 posts on "another forum", which means absolutely nothing. Mr. Beer January 2014 Brewer of the Month with all the pomp and circumstance that comes with it...
Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology
Sites to find beer making supplies: Adventures in Homebrewing - Mr. Beer - MoreBeer
Certificate in Brewing and Distillation Technology
Sites to find beer making supplies: Adventures in Homebrewing - Mr. Beer - MoreBeer
My Beer - click to reveal
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
I think I did that a few times when I was brewing Mr Beer sized batches, but when I switched to 5 gallon batches, I decided it wasn't worth saving the few ounces in the hydrometer tube if I risked infecting or oxidizing the rest of the batch. When I then used my LBK for experimental batches, I realized that it was the same thing, just on a smaller scale. Even if I sanitize well, I'm likely going to oxygenate at least a little, even if I use a wine thief. If your oldest bottles are less than three months old, that's one thing. But if you have batches that condition for many months (or over a year), oxygen isn't your friend.BlackDuck wrote:And another option is to pour the sample back into the fermenter. I do it all the time, with no ill effects. Even won some medals, so it doesn't really hurt. People may say that I'm making a huge mistake by doing it, but I will respectfully disagree.
Just make sure your test tube and hydrometer are well cleaned and sanitized. This is of utmost importance. I always pour a small taste off, then slowy pour the rest back in. I will also say that I usually only take two readings. Once on brew day before the yeast is pitched, and once after about two to two and half weeks, which for about 99% of my recipes is dry hop day. If I'm close to the projected FG (within a point or two), then it's done. The dry hops go in and it's kegged after the dry hop period is over.
- Whamolagan
- Braumeister
- Posts: 936
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:13 pm
Re: Ferment ,Carb and Condition times.
I never really measured it to be honest with ya. It just looks like 12 oz to me Guess I should check my facts before I just go running my mouthKealia wrote:Whamolagan wrote:...you need about 12 oz 3 times to figure if the beer is ready to bottle. Kind of a waste of beer IMO. ...
Whoa, Whamo how big is your hydrometer??? I measured the liquid in mine once and it takes between 3 and 4 ounces to fill the tube and get a reading. And for multiple checks you have two options:
1) Cover the hydrometer tube loosely with foil and keep checking the same sample, OR
2) Pour the hydro sample into a bottle after you've taken the reading and stuff a paper towel in the neck like a molotov cocktail until you are ready to re-pour it into the tube to read again
Either way should save on waste. I used this method for years before I stopped taking readings until bottling day. I even checked the samples against "fresh samples" every now and then to ensure that I got the same readings and they were ALWAYS spot on. No waste!