D-IPA Input requested

[Gizmo]

I'm not a hophead, as I tend to prefer malty beers like browns and porters. However, on Monday I'm planning on attempting a double IPA. I like my hops more citrus-y and less grassy, and have come up with the following plan. Let me know if anything seems off-kilter with the recipe:

71% Golden Promise (my standard base malt, could also go with Pilsner)
25% Munich Malt (also have Vienna and Caramel 40L on hand, if those seem better)
4% CaraPils

0.5oz Hop additions every 10 minutes:
60/50- Galena
40/30/20- Cascade
10/0- Spalter

Dry hopping Cascade and Spalter

Wyeast 1056

This is a ~2gal batch, and the most ambitious project I've attempted yet, as I've never used that many grains, hop additions, only once used live yeast, and have never racked to secondary.

I don't have time to pick up something different than what I have on hand, but I do have S-04, S-05, S-33 yeast, and Fuggles, Centennial, E. K. Goldings, Magnum, Simcoe, Willamette, Tettnang, and Tradition hops, along with those ingredients noted above, as well as a handful of darker/specialty grains not likely neccessary.

BeerSmith shows 1.089 SG, 99IBU, 8.3SRM, and 9.4%ABV estimates

Thanks for any input, especially if it's to say that I don't look like I'm making a bad beer!

[Beer-lord]

I'm not sure you need hop additions every 10 minutes. I think you can do a 60 minute, 20 minute 10 and zero and still achieve DIPA status but most IPA's go either the citrus or the piney route and there are better hops for that than Galena and Spalter. Just my 2 cents but I would bitter with Magnum and then stick to Cascade, Simcoe and Centennial and use the 1056 or 05 yeast. These also have a generous helping of dry hops so don't skimp on those.

All that said, these days, you'll find IPA's using every hop under the sun. It's fun to experiment so if that's what you want to try, have at it and let us know how it goes.

[Dawg LB Steve]

If leaning toward the citrusy side, Amarillo, Citra (but use later in the boil to get the citrus).

[BlackDuck]

I agree with Beer-lord on the hop schedule and also the hops he is suggesting...especially since you already have those on hand, and you like the citrus profile. And I'll also agree with sticking with either the 1056 or 05 yeast.

As for your malt bill...in my opinion (and others will have differing opinions here), 25% Munich is a little too much. I would bring that down to more like 10%. I like my hops to really come through, and I think that much Munich will tame the hop profile. You could very easily sub the Pilsner for the Golden Promise. Pilsner will give you a much cleaner taste and it will really let the hops come through. I did an IPA with Pils quite some time ago and it was really tasty. However, you'll need to do a longer boil to reduce the DMS. That being said, since this is your first project like this and your not a big hophead, I would stick with the Golden Promise. I just wanted to point out that you COULD sub the Pils.

Good Luck...

[Gizmo]

I appreciate the feedback so far! I thought the Munich might be a bit much, but used that to get in the "green" zone for coloring. I have dialed back to 10% and upped the Golden Promise. I thought playing with 10 minute additions of hops might make for an interesting profile, but seems like I'm just making more work for myself, and will stick to the normal 60, 20, 10, 0 timeline. I purchased the Galena specifically for this beer, so I'd hate to have wasted that money to swap it out, as it's just general bittering. However, I'll heed your advice on the Spalter and go with Simcoe and Centennial to compliment the Cascade.

[Gizmo]

Also, how much hops are recommended for dry hopping a "2" gallon batch? I'm worried about over doing it, but also worried about not getting the hop kiss from using too little.

[Beer-lord]

For a DIPA, the IBU range is 50 and above. Do you use Beersmith? If you have the alpha % from the hops, put them into Beersmith and then add the 60, 20, 10 and 0 additions and see what that gives you.
As a guess, depending on the alpha of the hops used and when it's added, you can start with .25 at 60, .35 at 20, .5 at 10 and .5 at 0. And 1-1.5 oz at dry hop.

[Gizmo]

i use BeerSmith, which gives me the data just fine into the fermenter. I'm just not sure how much hops to add for the dry hopping in the secondary, as they all list 0 IBUs following the boil.

[BlackDuck]

You'll get very little to no IBU's from the dry hop addition in the secondary. Dry hopping is primarily for aroma. So, it's kind of a personal choice on how much aroma you might want to get. For 5 gallon batches, I've dry hopped from only an ounce or two to 4 our 5 ounces. Obviously, since you're only doing a 2 gallon batch, you probably wouldn't need 4 or 5 ounces. Beer-lord mentioned 1 to 1.5 ounces, and that's a probably a good start.

[Kealia]

Also, how much hops are recommended for dry hopping a "2" gallon batch? I'm worried about over doing it, but also worried about not getting the hop kiss from using too little.

The benchmark numbers that I've seen call for 1oz/G for IPA & IIPA. You can use that as a starting point for what you want, but that will give you a nice punch of aroma at that ratio.

[Inkleg]

The benchmark numbers that I've seen call for 1oz/G for IPA & IIPA. You can use that as a starting point for what you want, but that will give you a nice punch of aroma at that ratio.

This is what I've seen also.
Just keep in mind that the dry hops will absorb some beer so plan for it if you have a desired bottling amount in mind.
I kegged my NEIPA last weekend. I added 6oz of dry hops to 5.75 gallons of beer. Between the yeast trub and dry hop mass I kegged just a little over 5 gallons.
I'll sanitize a zip tie and muslin sack and attach them the end of my racking tube when transferring a heavy hopped beer. Works wonders for catching debris.

[MrBandGuy]

These guys have you going. I will add that for LBK sized batches (2.5 G), I usually dry hop with 1-2 oz.


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[Gizmo]

Well, It's fermenting, so now just a matter of time to see how it turned out. Ended a little lower than expected, but apparently that's normal for homebrewing high gravity beers. Still 1.072 is what went in to the LBK, just shy of the 1.079 I had built up in BeerSmith.

[Gizmo]

Just wanted to chime in here to say that I tried the final half bottle "tester" last night, and aside from being a bit darker than anticipated, and slightly under-carbonated for how I'm hoping the rest turn out, it was delicious. Looking forward to a bit more conditioning and a lot more drinking of this batch!

[Beer-lord]

That's great to hear. What was the final recipe?