BeerBorg

Do you all recommend rehydrating yeast safbrew s-33 for a one gallon batch?
Thanks

I always rehydrate, but many do not. I learned that when dry yeast is re-hydrated, the yeast cannot control what goes through their cell membrane, so water is better for re-hydration then wort, which has sugars and stuff. So I re-hydrate with water. However, you are so over pitching in a gallon, that I doubt the extra work is worth it.

Monty

You'll find a lot of opinions on this. So here's what I do......I don't rehydrate my dry yeast, even for a 5 gallon batch. If you read the instructions for S-33, it says to direct pitch as long as the wort is above 68 degrees, then let it sit for 30 minutes, then aerate. I follow their directions and have always had good success. You will find others here that rehydrate, and that works too.

I have tried both ways and never noticed a difference in the finished product. To me it is just one more step on brew day that doesn't do anything but create extra work. Here is a good thread on the debate from the AHA forum
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/f ... ic=16784.0

Follow the package directions. Some say to hydrate, some say pitch dry. They have done the testing and know what is best for the particular strain of yeast. I do what the package says for dry yeast, it has always worked for me.

Thanks to all. I will be aerating in a bit. I did not rehydrate.
OG At 1.062 for my first gallon brew of black beards IPA from the American home brewer.
Even with all I've read, I would still like to hear fermentation time suggestions including bottle conditioning and also a possible cold crash.
Please and thanks ahead.
AB

3-4
3 weeks in the fermenting vessel
4 weeks in the bottle at room temp (2 weeks to carb, 2 weeks to condition)
then atleast 3 days in the chill box.

I always rehydrate my dry yeast, but that's just me. There's nothing that says your beer won't come out fine if you don't rehydrate. There's nothing that says you'll get better beer if you do rehydrate.

It's whatever suits you best.

I have found little difference in beers when I rehydrate vs just pitch so I stopped doing it for most batches. It does seem to make a difference when I make mead which could be because the must doesn't have the same nutrient levels that are in wort. I do still rehydrate yeast for high gravity beer batches 1.080 or higher just t9 give the yeast as good of a chance as I can.

Thanks Duff

I agree with both duff and FiT. for the most part I quit rehydrating, just an extra step on brew day with out clear benefits. unless, as FiT said, the yeast package says to. i.e. nottingham

jimjohson wrote:I agree with both duff and FiT. for the most part I quit rehydrating, just an extra step on brew day with out clear benefits. unless, as FiT said, the yeast package says to. i.e. nottingham

My thoughts on it as well. Why add another step just for the sake of adding another step. I have tried rehydrating and not and saw no noticeable differences in the beers either way. Like Dave said, it's up to you. Either you will or you won't it's up to you. And as others have stated, it's always best to follow what the packaging says, they know what they are doing.

I went ahead and followed directions from the s-33.

I'm a little amused by those who perceive rehydrating as adding another step to the brew day. Okay, technically, yes, you're doing something more than opening the package and pouring it into the wort, but let's look at everything that's involved in that "extra step".

I take a Pyrex measuring cup and put approx. 1/4 cup of water in it and microwave it for 2 minutes, so it boils. Then I take it out and set it on the countertop with a thermometer in it. When the temperature gets down to 90-95 degrees, I sprinkle the yeast into it, where it sits for 15 or 20 minutes.

Sure is a strain to do all that while I'm taking at least 60 minutes boiling my wort, and another 15 or 20 minutes chilling it to pitching temperature.

For the sake of knowledge, and technique I will be rehydrating at some point I'm sure.