BeerBorg

My dorm-sized fridge, which I control with a Johnson analog controller, died recently. I've been looking for a low-cost replacement, preferably getting a size upgrade for my trouble.

I've got my eye on two items on my local Craig's List. One's a fridge and one's a freezer. Both are attractive because they're dedicated space -- no freezer section to the fridge, and vice-versa. So, the whole unit would be devoted to my desired temperature for what I'm brewing.

Fridge (unknown cu. ft.) - $50


Freezer (18.2 cu. ft.) - $45



Is there any compelling reason to choose one over the other, all else being equal? I'm wondering in particular if running a freezer at higher temps is an issue...things like that.

Thoughts?

A freezer can run warmer, like at fridge temps, with the use of a controller (Johnson, STC, STC+, etc.) as the internal thermostat is moot since the controller controls when the compressor cycles. It can be a fridge because of this.

A fridge only unit will most likely have a thermostatic controller that has a low temp maximum that is in the 30-32°F range. It can never be a freezer (if it doesn't have one built in) unless you modify or bypass the internal controller as it will keep shutting the compressor off at the low limit temp.
(Edit: Note that a combination fridge / freezer keeps the freezer cold (frozen) with the compressor and diverts some portion of the freezer air to the fridge via a fan and diverter unit to keep the fridge area cold but not frozen).

Space and physical layout are concerns, depending on your needs.

I guess I'ld prefer a freezer for kegging, a fridge with a freezer for general fermentation and kegging, noting that at many fridge temps, the freezer would still keep stuff frozen for a period of time... And a fridge only as my last choice.

The freezer in the pic seems to have a tray of baking soda I'm guessing, probably keeping some undesirable odor at bay. There also seems to be some ice blocks on top. I'd be concerned with that one...

Also, on any unit, check the power cord for kinks or breaks in the insulation, the plug for integrity and burn marks or heat damage, all the door seals (and look in the folds of the seals as they can hide clues to how the unit was cared for (or not cared for!)

Bring a thermometer with you that reads 0-100°F at least to check operating temp. Note that it takes a few hours for it to get cold enough to seem like it's working correctly but as much as 24 hours for it to get stable at temperature.

Look at the back and underneath (without tipping it over if you can help it.. Look for dust accumulation, leaks and bugs.

Check the drain area to insure it is not plugged.

You probably know most of this already... Just remember whe you transport it to keep it upright else you will have to let it stand for 24-48 hours to allow the refridgerant to return to the bottom as a liquid before turning it on at home.

Great info, there, BPG - thanks much!

Yes, my radar was up regarding that baking soda in the freezer.

The reason I've been focusing on dedicated units of either type is: I assume that with a combo fridge/freezer, if you're using the external controller* to keep the fridge side at a fermentation temp (50s, or more likely, 60s), then power to the unit is going to be turned OFF quite often (certainly more so than it would be at traditional fridge temps), and as a result the freezer side becomes essentially useless, as it won't be running often enough to keep things frozen.


*This is the controller I use:



I don't keg, and don't see that in my near future, though it's always something to keep in mind as a possibility. However, since my goal is to control fermentation temps first and foremost, the unit I choose will spend most of it's time in the 60s, which doesn't do much good for kegging, anyway.

My recently-expired dorm fridge would hold (just barely) two LBK's at once, giving me the flexibility to do half- or full-size batches. Most dorm fridges are too small to handle two LBK's, which is why I was very happy with the one I had. Moving up to a full-size fridge or freezer would give me the flexibility to move away from LBK's and into "better" fermenters (carboys, buckets, Better Bottles, Demonic conicals...whatever), thus giving more options on batch sizes, etc. Plus extra space for bottle-conditioning, and storing some ingredients.

I didn't know about keeping it upright while transporting (else having to wait to power up) so that factoid right there makes your post golden, in my book!

Good post and info by BPG, but the "fridge" in the top picture may be a freezer. The cooling coils are running through the shelf units. You may be able to bend them out of the way and not effect the cooling, but if not you've ruined it. Are the pictures labeled backwards? You cannot upgrade to larger fermenters with the unit in the top picture.

@ Inkleg Good eye Jeff! I didn't see the coils... Seems that would be a pain as you wouldn't be able to move shelves around!

@ Crazy Climber

Thanks, glad it helps!

Regarding the combo fridge freezer deaign, remember: You are controlling the compressor which cools the freezer. The internal fan distributes that cold air to the fridge.

So, whatever you set the controller at with the thermocoupling in the fridge area, that's how cold the fridge area will be.

The freezer will always be colder than that. How much colder will depend on the temp you are holding the fridge at.

So, in that sense you are right... It might not be cold enough to keep food frozen... But it would probably keep finished beer cold enough to either lager or drink!

Coil point is key.

Fixed shelves, without coils, limit flexibility. And your LBKs, especially if propped up, may not fiit on every shelf height-wise.

A freezer that is not frost free and has coils on shelves will drip all the time.

Make sure you try to fit an LBK on every shelf, with nozzle and lid, and can close the door.

I started using in-laws freezer. It drips, bottom has hump (no 5 gal bucket there), shelves are fixed with coils, and one won't fit LBK.

A freezer can sub as a freezer or fridge if your main unit fails, a fridge cannot be an emergency freezer.

Regarding moving it upright, that is great advice. But if you have to lie it down, leaving it off and upright for an equal amount of time is required. Also, how you lie it down is critical to prevent compressor oil from causing a problem. Read this: How to move a fridge.

What an idiot! It never occurred to me that the top one might be a freezer! The listing on Craig's List was for a parish that was selling "various fridges and freezers" -- there were about 6 or 7 of them in total, of various types -- and I just assumed that one was a fridge. But, it would make more sense for it to be a freezer, now that I have connected my brain.



There's obviously a lot more to consider with this decision than I realized. But that is why I brought this to the Borg in the first place -- knowing that I'd come away better-informed. Thanks to all for the helpful tips.

If anyone has more helpful tips or opinions on the topic, keep 'em coming!

You're on the right track with Craigslist, it's just buyer beware. I got a great GE Profile for $75 - one that probably cost thousands with custom cabinet doors on it. Had to move it out of a basement with no outside access - enter my two sons on the bottom pushing it up the carpeted stairs... It was 270 pounds. They were asking $250, but were moving (fixed timeframe) and it was in the basement and had to come out. Desperate times for better deals.

Both look like freezers. Beware age too - the one I bought was older (2002), but used for 6 years then set unused (open, not closed), then was used from 2010 - 2013 only on holidays, turned off the rest of the time. So it was only around 6 or 7 years old. They don't last forever.

Also, ask the seller to a) commit to selling it to you and b) if it's unplugged to plug it in for 24 hours prior to you picking it up so you can check temps and ideally c) agree that if it's not working 48 hours after pickup they will take it back. I got all three, but "c" would be hard.

Mine is the beer frig - for drinking, not fermenting. It would work great as a fermenter, but SWMBO is using the freezer compartment as a extra room, so I can't steal it for fermenting, I would lose part of the justification of the purchase "wow, I can store chicken in this!". The in-law's freezer works as a fermenter, with the dripping and fixed shelves. I have used it for two batches, no idea if it would drip in a cooler basement that's not humid, but it dripped like crazy in a 80 degree garage. If I switch it to be a spare freezer, then I lose space for my brews...

First world problems are HELL!

As long as the mostly fixed shelves of an upright freezer dont cause you problems (but may limit flexibility down the road), I would go with whatever model is newest as it would not only be more energy efficient but hopefully last a tad longer. Also, I would take a chest freezer over an upright. Everytime you open an upright all the heavier cold air dumps out, which is why I will take a week's worth of meat out of mine and move it upstairs. On a final note, Ive been told that freezers are usually more insulated than fridges.