What's that taste?

[i-ferment]

Hi sorry if this is a bit long, I want to make sure I get in all the details...

I've made several batches of brews and experienced a very similar result with the end products: A sort of medicinal, bitter, maybe soapy like aftertaste in the conditioned bottled beer. The taste is present in green variations, 4 week old conditioned, warm or cold. I've been only brewing Hefeweizen or Witbiers kits either from BrewDemon or AIH. 5 batches in all and all not worth drinking. All my equipment is new. I've cleaned it with Sodium Percarbonate and soaked as directed in One Step.

I first started using Reverse Osmosis water but was told minerals are good, so started using bottled spring water. Still no difference. Then I started thinking about my sanitization process. I've worked in a lab and am OCD about germs and clean workspaces. Is One Step really a sanitizer? Some say use Star San. So I did instead of One Step. I didn't fear the foam! Sanitization should not be the issue.

I did read that maybe chlorine can cause off tastes, but I've only used tap water for the cleaning/sanitizing process (my current 3 gallon of Star San is made with RO water) AND where I live my TAP water is really good anyway.

I've bottled in cleaned used bottles, cleaned new bottles and plastic BD bottles.

My wort taste and smells good and I'm pretty sure my post ferment-primary ferment taste ok. Still my beer is bad. Anyone have any suggestion of what I'm doing wrong? It shouldn't be this difficult.

I look forward to some wisdom being passed on. Thank you.

[mashani]

Band Aid like medicinal taste?

Wheat beer yeasts make clove flavored phenols, which could be interpreted as such. Fermentation temperatures and pitch rates affect just how much of those phenols you get. If you aren't pitching enough yeast or are fermenting outside the preferred range of the yeast (that would be too cold if there is too much clove most likely) then those things can be amped up.

Soapy taste would also tend to make me think stressed out yeast. Or old canned extract. When using malt extract it's always best to use very fresh stuff. But with the Brew Demon or Mr. Beer HMEs you get what you get, it may have sat around a while. I don't know what AIH gives you. If it is dry extract it should not have this problem, it's only canned extract if it is getting old. If AIH sends it in a jug it's probably fresh(er). I don't know what AIH turn around is like compared to Northern Brewer or MoreBeer (you will get fresh light extract from either of those if you order it).

I only brew with fresh bulk extracts when I'm using them if possible, because it makes better beer.

Your sanitizer choices can't make that flavor. Tap water or not. Only if you used bleach to sanitize your fermenter or bottles and didn't rinse and dry properly. Or used very high chloramine tap water as your brewing water which you are not.

[BlackDuck]

Good answers for you by Mashani....so I'll just say welcome to the forum, glad you found us here. Don't fret, your on your way to making good beer. Hang around here awhile and ask all the questions you need. There will be plenty of help coming your way for sure. Just be patient, you'll get there. Believe it or not, there is quite a bit that goes into making good beer.

[Inkleg]

First welcome to the forum.

Good information by Mashani about what might be yeast off flavors. What is the ambient temperature where your fermenters are? What yeasts did you use?

[swenocha]

Only here to back up Mashani's analysis. I'd vote for stressed yeast. Either old yeast, underpitched yeast, or high (or low) fermentation temps. Can you give some specifics on that front? What yeasts are you using? What amounts? Expiration date on the yeast? What are your pitch temps? Your fermentation temps?

Welcome.

[i-ferment]

Thanks all for the feedback and welcoming encouragement! FRESH INGREDIENTS that's what my next recipe is going to be made from. I've started keeping all my hops and yeasts in the fridge - which they weren't. Plus I do think they were near expiration dates... It also seems to me buying bulk might be cheaper.

As for temperatures I'm using an old full size fridge (unplugged) and a small space heater to control temperature which is 68-70 F. I've noticed that when the yeast takes, it amps up the temp 4 - 6 degrees then lowers. Is that correct?

I think the fridge is perfect during the cold months to control the temp. Is there a potential issue in brewing two different styles and fermenting in a semi sealed environment?

The other good news is no one is thinking there's a sanitization issue; as I'm not sure I can be cleaner and still brew in my house.

I've got a Witbier I think on deck, I'll report back later. There is one thing I notice when searching other posts. Many are recommending the primary ferment should be 3 weeks. Any more info or a link on that?

I'm looking forward to this site and it's resources. Many Thanks all!

[mashani]

The 3 weeks is "to be sure it's done" if you don't have a hydrometer and/or are not pitching enough yeast, which are both common problems that new folks have.

If you pitch enough yeast and ferment in the right temperature range then it really is probably done in 10-14 days, but an extra week won't hurt.

Your refrigerator temps should not be making clove bombs with wheat beer yeast. They if anything are a bit warm, especially if you are not turning off the heater once the yeast gets active, and should be making more banana with such yeasts (although dry wheat strains tend to not be much good at making a lot of banana).

Having 2 different batches going in the same fridge should not be a problem.

Yes, active fermentation will raise temps. Some yeasts will raise the temps by up to 10 degrees.

You may want to get a temperature controller and wire it up to your fridge and plug it in. That will help regulate the temps better. You can dial it in at say 66 degrees and keep your fermentation in the sweet spot for many "real ales", or lower it down if you want to brew cleaner ales or lagers.

[i-ferment]

The 3 weeks is "to be sure it's done" if you don't have a hydrometer and/or are not pitching enough yeast, which are both common problems that new folks have.

If you pitch enough yeast and ferment in the right temperature range then it really is probably done in 10-14 days, but an extra week won't hurt.

Your refrigerator temps should not be making clove bombs with wheat beer yeast. They if anything are a bit warm, especially if you are not turning off the heater once the yeast gets active, and should be making more banana with such yeasts (although dry wheat strains tend to not be much good at making a lot of banana).

Having 2 different batches going in the same fridge should not be a problem.

Yes, active fermentation will raise temps. Some yeasts will raise the temps by up to 10 degrees.

You may want to get a temperature controller and wire it up to your fridge and plug it in. That will help regulate the temps better. You can dial it in at say 66 degrees and keep your fermentation in the sweet spot for many "real ales", or lower it down if you want to brew cleaner ales or lagers.

Again thank you for the feedback! Really appreciate it. Here's to drinkable homebrew in 2017!

[Inkleg]

You may want to get a temperature controller and wire it up to your fridge and plug it in. That will help regulate the temps better. You can dial it in at say 66 degrees and keep your fermentation in the sweet spot for many "real ales", or lower it down if you want to brew cleaner ales or lagers.

^^This^^
Looks like you might be stressing the yeast. Your primary fermentation temperatures could be reaching 75+ degrees.
The biggest jump in the quality of my beers came by correct yeast pitch rates and fermentation temperature control. I have an old fridge with a temperature controller and a reptile heat tape, but any good heat source will work. Inkbird controllers come to mind. I don't have one, but I hear good things about them from those that do.
Secure the temp probe to the side of your fermenter covered by a small folded towel or other insulation of your liking, plug your fridge and heater into the controller, set desired fermentation temperature, (you are using a blow off tube for at least the few first days of fermentation, right?) and let them work together for the best beer possible.

[Dawg LB Steve]

Welcome to the Borg!!! Think these guys have you covered, my vote goes to fermentation temps ambient air temp of 68-70 could really mean that the actual wort fermentation temp could be in the upper 70's for the first week. Don't be discouraged there is quite a bit of knowledge at all levels of brewing to be shared here for the same outcome, A Great Home Brewed Beer!